Cycling in Serbia: Where Danube meets Balkans

Cycling in Serbia: where Danube meets Balkans:

Serbia is a Balkan country in south east Europe, surrounded by Bulgaria, Romania, Hungary, Croatia, Bosnia & Harzegovina, Montenegro, Kosovo and north Macedonia. Many people asked me why I chose this country for cycling? 

1. It is a non-Schengen Europian country where visa free entry is allowed for US visa holders. 
2. It is cheaper as compared to other neighbouring countries.
3. Flight connectivity from Delhi to Belgrade is much better as compared to other Balkan countries. 
4. Finally, the beautiful Danube river and Eurovelo 6 trails. 

Day-1: 9 sept’26: Reaching Belgrade: 

Stay: Guesthouse ozegovic (zemun area, +381 63226283, RSD 6000 for 2 nights): 

I boarded Lufthansa flight (LH761) for Frankfurt at 2.50 am and then connecting flight (LH1410) from frankfurt to Belgrade at 10.30 am to reach Belgrade at 12.25 hrs. 

Check in at New Delhi airport was smooth. They allowed my bicycle box (23 kg), size (1500x 800x 210) as free check in bag. They also offered my hand bag (8 kg) as check in bag. So I was made free to walk with my personal items only.

At Belgrade Nikola Tesla airport, passport control was very smooth based on my US visa. I purchased local SIM (MTS, RSD 950 for 30 days) and withdrew 4000 RSD (1 RSD~ 0.91 INR) from my forex card for taxi fare. At airport atm, it took around 750 INR as commission. It is advisable to avoid ATM at airport. 

After reaching to my pre-booked guest house, I assembled my bike and owner agreed to store my empty box till I complete my cycling trip in Serbia. Guest house had a small kitchen where I prepared my dinner and rested for the day. 

Day-2: 10 sept’26: Belgrade stay: 36 km:

In the morning, I went to the river front which was very near to my guesthouse.  It was the confluence of river Sava into Danube. Lots of shorebirds like swans, mallards, seagulls, etc. were seen on the river. I was thrilled to see Danube for the first time and I cycled along the river for some time. 

In the afternoon, I had an appointment with Indian ambassador at Belgrade. I cycled through the busy Belgrade road to reach Indian embassy at Belgrade. It was around 15 km from my guesthouse. Ambassador Mr. Abhisek Shukla heartily welcomed me and assured me all help during my trip in Serbia. 

Day-3: 11 sept’26: Belgrade to Novi sad (by train)-Backa planka: 70 km cycling 

Stay: Sindi Apartman (+381 69 3081964, RSD 4680 for 2 nights):

Danube enters Serbia from Hungary at the junction of Hungary, Croatia and Serbia near Bezdan (sombor municipality) at western Serbia. I wanted to start my journey along the Eurovelo 6 route somewhere near the entry point Danube in Serbia. 

I boarded a local train from zemun station towards Novi sad. Due to renovations at Novi sad railway station, train ended at petrovaradin station. I cycled to Novi sad to take another regional train for Sombor. Unfortunately, that regional train also didn’t come to Novi sad due to same station renovation. I tried to take a bus for sombor driver refused to take bike in luggage. So, after making all efforts, I had to drop my plan to reach sombor. 

As a solo cyclist, I have to keep my calm. So I rested for some time in the bus station. Suddenly, I found that the rear tire of my bike is flattened. I replaced the tube with the spare one and thereafter purchased a new tube from a Cycle shop. 

I changed my plan and decided to go to Backa Planka (which is around 50 km from Novi sad) and booked a home stay there. After having some bread item from a mart, I started cycling towards Backa planka, initially through the city roads and then along the Danube river. I was so tired that I couldn’t look here and there to enjoy any landscape. 

There is a proverb, “when problem comes, they carry with them all their relatives.” So, after train cancellations, bus refusing to take my bike, tire puncture, it started raining heavily. I took shelter at the road side fabrication factory. 

Now, God took care of me. One elderly lady (may be the owner of the workshop) came to meet me. She assured me that I can stay here as long as I need. She gave me one bottle of drinking water, some ripe sweet palms (at least half of kg), one big packet of biscuits and some solace. She told me how husband died through rabbit infection and many more personal stories. 

After 1 hr, rain slowed down and I got my rhythm back and moved towards Backa planka. It was going to be dark soon, so I cycled faster and reached to Homestay just before being dark. 

Homestay owner was a nice person. He was waiting for me. Full apartment with all facilities was given to me. After the hectic day, I thought to rest here for one extra day. I prepared my dinner and rested well. 

Day-4: 12 sept’26: Backa Planka stay: 15 km

I rested for the whole forenoon in the room. In the afternoon, I cycled to Danube river bank, Eurovelo 6 route, nature park, the market place, etc. Being Saturday evening, markets were all most closed except few food courts. But I got the feel of an Europian town with designer lamp posts, wooden benches, old trees, open food courts, smart children, etc. 

I bought some pre-cooked roti for my dinner and returned to my room. By this time, all my tiredness had gone and I am ready to move tomorrow morning. 

Day-5: 13 sept’26: Backa planka to novi sad, taking night bus for Sarajevo: 60 km

In the morning, after DIY breakfast, I started cycling towards Novi sad along the Eurovelo 6 route. It was good but lonely. I reached Novi sad at around 1 pm and went to visit the iconic 18th century petrovaradin fortress. It provides stunning panoramic view of Novi sad and Danube river. The clock tower, known as “drunken clock” is unique with reverse hands. The long hand shows hours and short hand shows minutes. 

There are thousands of locks hanged on the railings of the fortress. Newly wed couples come here and ties a lock here with the wish of a long lasting wedlock. 

After visiting the fortress, I spent 2 hrs on the bank of Danube river and then went to Novi sad bus station and boarded a night bus (Globtour, 42 euro, booked through flixbus app) for Sarajevo (Bosnia and Harzegovina). I also paid RSD 500 for my bike. 

(From 14 to 21 sept’26, I travelled in Bosnia and Harzegovina and that is covered in a separate blog)

Day-6: 22 sept’26: Reaching Belgrade: 15 km: 

Stay: Hostel Bongo (stari Grad, near republic square, +381 65 3400348, 17.5 euro): 

On 21 sept’26, I took a night bus (Globtour, 50 euro) from Capljina to Belgrade. Bus reached new Belgrade bus station at 6.30 am. I assembled my bike and rode to my pre-booked hostel. Somehow, I managed to get a bed early. After freshening up and breakfast, I went to a cycle shop for servicing of my bike. I got a good service shop and he checked my bike thoroughly and made all necessary refurbishments. 

Then I went to visit the famous Belgrade fortress (Kalemegdan). It is a living monument, far from a quiet outdoor museum, open air artillery display, ottoman style clock tower, bullet scarred walls and with lively park promenade. I enjoyed this monument along with many tourists. Entry was free. 

On return, I visited the republic square, the central public square and social hub anchored by monumental cultural institutions and a landmark equestrian statue (prince Michael). In the evening, I visited the church of saint sava, one of the largest Eastern Orthodox Church buildings in the world, known for its monumental architecture and vast gold mosaic interiors. 

My stay in the hostel was good as it had kitchen facilities and I prepared all meals. 

Day-7: 23 sept’26: Belgrade to Skorenovac (near Kovin): 75 km:

Stay: Apartman Dani (+381 13 764066, 20 Euro):

Today I wanted to ride towards the eastern part of Serbia. First destination thought to be ‘smederevo’. But I could not find a safe cycling route to smederevo. The Eurovelo 6 route in this section does not have paved roads and the alternate paved roads are very crowded with traffic. Finally, after discussing with locals, I choose the route via  Pancevo, kovin, etc. Crossing the busy Pancevo bridge was a tough job. Then I had to ride on the highway (E-70) for about 20 km before reaching Pancevo. Thereafter, I got good road through the small towns like Omoljica, starcevo, banatski brestovac, etc. In between, I tried to ride on the river banks for few kilometres. But roads were so bad that I came back to city roads again. By this way,  I lost lots of time and I could not reach to smederevo. Instead, I booked an accommodation at Skorenovac, a small village near kovin. It was a nice home stay with kitchen, courtyard, gardens, pets, etc. 

Day-8: 24 sept’26: Skorenovac to zatonje: 68 km

Stay: Studio Limes (+381 69 2329029, 14 Euro)

Today I cycled along the state road no. 134, through Kovin- Gaj- Dubovac- Banatska planka and reached to Stara Planka. 

It was excellent road with limited vehicles, greenery on both sides. 

From stara planka, I took a ferry at 1 pm to reach Ram. I was not knowing the ferry timings. Luckily, I got it, otherwise I would have to wait till 4 pm for the next one. 

I met Theo, a cyclist from UK. He invited me for a cycling trip in UK. Ferry dropped us just in front of the Ram fortress. It is a 15th century Ottoman artillery fortress situated on a steeply rocky cliff on the Danube river. Here, I met few young men from Novi Sad. They became my friends, they even paid my entry fee (RSD 600) for the fortress. 

Thereafter, the beautiful part of euro velo 6 route starts, alongside the Danube river. A newly built dedicated asphalt path closely hugs the river corridor, providing continuous uninterrupted scenic views of Danube. Danube is quite wide here and Romania is on the other side of the river.

In stead of going further, I booked a studio apartment at Zatonje for night halt. After freshening up, I roamed around the village, its church,etc. It was a very quiet village. 

Day-9: 25 sept’26: Zatonje to Dobra: 60 km:

Stay: Rooms Stanojevic (064 2800 666, RSD 2200 including dinner):

It is raining in the morning. So I started a little late. The beautiful euro velo 6 continues to veliko gradiste through the silver lake (srebrno jezero) along the right Danube bank.  Srebrno jezero is an oxbow lake (U-shaped or crescent shaped water body) attracts visitors for lakeside beaches, camping and boating. As I passed through on a rainy morning, it was empty. I continued on this cycling trail in stead of going inside the town, veliko gradiste. I ate a burek sa sirom (a phyllo pastry filled with cheese, meat, egg, etc. ) for lunch at a bakery shop (called pekara in Serbian). One portion costs around 200 RSD. It is very popular in Serbia. I continued towards Golubac. This 36 km trail from Zatonje to Golubac via Veliko Gradiste was wonderful and I wished it would never end. Golubac is small town (population of only 1500) featuring lake side parks and beaches. It was still drizzling and I decided to continue further to reach Golubac Fortress. 

It is a fairy tale 14th century stronghold featuring ten stone towers, perched dramatically on sheer cliffs where Danube enters the Iron gate George. It offers panoramic river vistas, multi tiered climbing zones and a museum. Entry fee for the complex was RSD 900. Due to rainy weather and short of time, I didn’t go inside but enjoyed the beauty from outside. 

I continued towards Dobra through the dramatic scenery of Derdap national park along the Danube river. I had to cross many cliffs and dark shorts tunnels (max. 300 m). I fixed front and back lights on my bike and reflector on my body. 

My UK friend Theo arranged a contact for a Homestay at Dobra. The lady owner was very nice. She waiting on the main road to welcome me. She offered me a sumptuous home made dinner (soup, fish dry, cheese, smashed potato, bread, etc.). Though I paid 500 RSD for the dinner, but hospitality and warmth was beyond money. She couldn’t speak English. Still we had long conversations and in the evening, she showed me the village and asked me to come again with family. 

Day-10: 26 sept’26: Dobra to Donji Milanovac: 40 km

Stay: Zankozic rooms (062 1263853, RSD 2500):

After an emotional farewell, I rode towards Donji Milanovac with Danube on the left and Derdap national park on the right and Romania on the other bank of the river. 

On the way, I visited the lepenski vir, one of the Europe’s oldest pre-historic urban settlements. It is notable for its outstanding level of preservation and high quality of artefacts.  

After visiting the archaeological site, I moved to Donji Milanovac. I booked a Homestay there but it did have kitchen facilities. So I looked for another Homestay and I got a better one, just in front of the river. They provided a full fledged kitchen, washing machine, twin bed room, etc. 

I prepared my food and then roamed around the city. It is also a small village (population 2500), right on the bank of Danube. The owner shared his dinner with me. It was my best stay so far. There are many hiking trails in Derdap national park (UNESCO Geopark) I wish to have stayed couples of more days here to enjoy hiking in the Derdap mountains and enjoying Danube. 

Day-11: 27 sept’26: Donji Milanovac to Kladovo: 65 km

Stay: B&B Bas Bastica (+381 66 5080551, 20 Euro):

Today, I cycled through the most beautiful part of Eurovelo 6 route, passing through the  Kazan George (Iron Gate). The name ‘Iron Gate’ came from the extreme navigational danger of the George at Danube, between Serbia and Romania. Historically, this stretch of Danube was nearly impossible for the ships to pass through due submerged rocks, crags, fierce, violent river currents. But now modern engineering and hydroelectric dams have tamed the river and I could see many cruises were sailing. It is the largest canyon in Europe. The scenic beauty was awesome, a new scenery appears at every turn, many tunnels, Miroc mountain at the right and colourful Romanian town (Orsova) on the other bank. I met many cyclists here from various parts of the world here. I felt so fortunate to have decided to do a cycling trip here.

passed through villages like tekija, liskovac and the border check post at Trajan’s bridge  and finally reached to kladovo town. It is also beautiful town (20K population). 

My Homestay was very neat and clean and arranged everything is artistic style. Here, I met a solo lady cyclist (Kathi) from Hannover (Germany). She was very friendly and invited me for a cycling trip in Germany. 

Day-12: 28 sept’26: Kladovo to Negotin: 57 km:

Stay: Base Camp- Urban Guerrilla, Mr. Bojan, RSD 4500 for 2 nights):

After DIY breakfast, I moved towards negotin via state road 35. It is also scenic and part of Euro velo6 but Danube is not visible always. I reached to the base camp by 2 pm. Mr. Bojan was a very friendly and helpful person. He offered me home made complementary lunch (bean soup, cheese, bread, salads, etc).

Negotin is small town (15k population) at border of Bulgaria. In the evening, I roamed around the beautiful town and then prepared dinner. 

I had a plan to cycle upto Zajecar before transfer to Belgrade by bus. Bojan advised me that all buses starts from Negotin and passes through Zajecar and loading of bike at bus from Zajecar may be difficult. So I decided to stay here for 2 nights and explore local sights around Negotin. 

Day-13: 29 sept’26: Negotin stay: 30 km

There are many wineries near negotin. Based on Bojan’s advice, I went to Negotin Railway station and boarded a local train at 9.30 am. Negotin station is very small with no proper platform. It does not have a ticket counter even. The train look like vintage train with 2 coaches. One driver and one conductor who helped me  to load my bike into the coach. There were about 15 passengers going to Zajecar. Conductor gave me a ticket (RSD 124) for Roglijevo. It was a beautiful 20 min journey through wineries. 

I got down at Roglijevo and one new passenger came in. I cycled to Roglijevacke pinvice, the 19th century stone wine cellar. The owner (3rd generation) showed me the process of wine preparation and then offered me to taste 4 different types of wines. 

After visiting the winery, I cycle to Bulgaria border (Mokranje in Serbia side and Bregova on Bulgaria side). Just after taking a pic, I rode back to Negotin bus station and purchased an advanced ticket (RSD 2100) for Belgrade for next morning. 

prepared lunch (Khichri) and Mr. Bojan again gave me some curries to eat with my lunch. 

Day-14: 30 sept’26: Negotin to Belgrade: 10 km: 

Stay: Guest house Ozegovic (+381 63 226283, 7200 RSD for 2 days)

I got up early to take bus for Belgrade at 5.50 am. It was dark and a gang of street dogs were after me. I got scared and somehow reached to the bus station. Driver loaded my bike in the luggage. I had to pay 500 RSD (after negotiation) for my bike. 

Suddenly, I saw Mr. Bojan at the bus station. He gave me few cookies to munch during my journey. Fully knowing that we may not meet again in this lifetime, he came to see me at the bus station at that early hours. This is humanity. 

I reached to Belgrade at 10.30 am and then cycled to the same Gesthouse where I stayed earlier at the beginning. In the evening, I again roamed near the Danube river. 

Day-15: 1 oct’25: Belgrade Stay: 17 km

Today is my the last day in Serbia. By this time, I am already in love with this country and Belgrade in particular. Apart from preparing my breakfast, lunch and dinner, I made a cycling trip in the city through usce park, sava river promenade, Ada ciganlija island, etc. Then I packed my bike in the box. 

Homestay owner himself agreed to drop me at airport (RSD 2500) at 11 pm for my Delhi flight at 6 am next morning. I reached Delhi (via Munich) on 2nd October’26 mid night. 

This way I completed my cycling trip in Serbia. In 15 days, I have cycled for Total 630 km. Though I faced some problems at the beginning but later on cycling through Ram, veliko gradiste, Golubac, Donji Milanovac, Derdap national park, iron gate George, etc was excellent and unforgettable.