Cycling in Nagaland & Upper Assam: Land of Natural Beauty:
The “seven sisters” of India i.e. the seven north eastern states of India have always been my favourite destinations. In April’24, I have cycled across Meghalaya, Arunachal Pradesh and some parts of Assam. This time, I wanted to explore the state of Nagaland and upper part of Assam.
I reached Dimapur, the commercial hub of Nagaland on 5 April’25 at 00.30 hrs after a long journey of 30 hrs in New Delhi- Dibrugarh Rajdhani express.
Day-1: 5 April’2026: Dimapur to Diphu: by local train: Cycling 10 km;
After collecting my cycle from Dimapur station, I reached to my telephonically pre-booked hotel at 1 am and slept for few hours. After breakfast, I roamed around the Dimapur city and visited the Kachari ruins, the 13th century medieval monuments. The site features distinctive, tall, mushroom shaped stone pillars alongside crumbling structures.
At 4 pm, I took a local train for Diphu, a town in the Karbi Anglong district of Assam. Some co-passengers helped me to load my bike into a passenger coach. I got down at Diphu station at 5 pm and cycled up to The Art of living (AOL) ashram. Serene natural setting, homelike hospitality and traditional vegetarian meals rejuvenated my mind. After dinner, I also attended their regular meditation session and Satsang. Vishnu (my son's friend) who left his IT job in Microsoft to become a full-timer to manage this Ashram.
Day-2: 6 April’26: Diphu visit: Cycling 15 km.
Stay: The Art of living (AOL) Ashram, Diphu (9986991305).
In the morning, I did my yoga and pranayama in the ashram hall. After breakfast, I took out my bike and cycled towards the Lamding Dimapur road and passed through District Jail, Assam University (Diphu campus), botanical garden, etc. In the afternoon, I hired an auto to visit the Taralangso cultural centre. Swami chidakasha (a sannyasi from AOL) accompanied me. This area is famous for hosting annual Karbi youth festival. It is a nice place to roam around, however being Sunday, most of the pavilions and museums were closed.
Day-3: 7 April’26: Diphu to Chumoukedima: 60 km:
Stay: Hotel Bliss (07630-997727)(INR 500):
Today, I wanted to start my cycling early towards Nagaland. But due to rain, I could start only at 8 am. From Diphu, I took dhansiri road (329A) which is very scenic with forests on both sides. I reached Dhansiri town at 10 am. Dhansiri is a small town where I rested for sometime before moving towards Chumoukedima in Nagaland. Google map suggested me to enter Nagaland from Rangapahar. However, I landed up into a 'no return' muddy village road. Some villagers suggested me to cross the Dhansiri river by walking so that I get better road other side (in Nagaland) and travel distance is also reduced. One villager helped me to push my cycle across the high current of the river and I removed my shoes to walk through the knee dip high flow water. It was very difficult but somehow I managed.
After the adventurous river crossing, beautiful roads and kind villagers of Nagaland welcomed me and I reached Chumoukedima town in the afternoon. I reached to hotel bliss (found through google). Considering a solo cyclist and blogger, they provided me a room at a concessional rate. I had my dinner at the hotel restaurant.
Day-4: 8 April’26: Chumoukedima to Kohima: 60 KM
Stay: Hotel Eden (9863809850, INR 1500).
After having DIY breakfast (oats), I started cycling towards Kohima. I had a plan to reach Khonoma village. But I found that road to khonoma is very difficult for cycling. So, I changed my mind and continued cycling towards Kohima through Asian highway (NH 29). It was continuous climbing but very scenic. After Medziphema, gradient increased significantly. I requested one LCV to give me lift for some distance. He agreed and I travelled in his vehicle alongwith my cycle for about 16 km upto Kiruphema.
There is an excellent restaurant at Kiruphema (Wonderhill Inn, 8119064499). I had my lunch here (Roti Thali). Anybody travelling in this route, must take a break here. After lunch, I continued cycling on the hills where riding every metre matters. After zubza (15 km before Kohima), roads happened to be very bad and I requested one local person (victor) to help me. After removing the front wheel, I loaded my cycle into his car and he drove me upto the entrance of Kohima city. Then I cycled upto my pre-booked hotel.
In the evening, I went to BOC market area and purchased raw materials (rice, dal, vegetables, etc) and prepared my dinner.
Day-5: 9 April’26: Kohima to Khonoma: by bus:
Stay: Meno Homestay (Ameno 8787548258, INR 800).
I spent the morning hours walking around Naga Bazar, Kohima war cemetery, etc. Kohima war cemetery is a well maintained world war II memorial located on garrison hill. Naga Bazar is very peculiar. Along with grains, vegetables and fruits, road side vendors were selling snails and golden frogs. As per the locals, golden frogs are very delicious but bit expensive (a set of 3 frogs costs INR 500).
I checked out from hotel and kept my bags at their reception. At 1.30 pm, I boarded a local bus for Khonoma village. As soon as I reached Khonoma, it started raining. I checked in at a Homestay, very near to tourist information centre. Khonoma village is the home of Angami tribe and known as first green village of India. It boosts rich bio-diversity and crime free community. To roam around the village, you need a guide (INR 500). My guide nicely explained me the history of the village, how they fought against the British rule.
The lady owner of the homestay was exceptionally nice. She offered me fruits, herbal drinks and finally a homemade dinner. Looking at the terraced farm and green valley from the over hanging balcony was really refreshing. I would like to come to this village again if not for any other reasons but for living in this homestay at least for few days.
Day-6: 10 April’26: khonoma to Kohima: (by taxi):
Stay: Hotel Eden (INR 2000 for 2)
There is only one bus which leaves at 6.30 am for Kohima. So, I got ready by 5.30 am. I wanted to walk another round in the village without rain. After visiting the village, when I reached near to the bus stand, someone told me that the bus will not run today as driver is busy in other route. So, I boarded a sharing taxi (Rs 150) to reach Kohima.
I reached to hotel Eden and rechecked in a twin bed room. Kumar Abhisek (my cyclist friend from Ahmedabad) joined me here. In the evening, we walked to BOC Area and visited the Kohima peace memorial park. It is a beautifully landscaped eco-park and a museum displaying World War II stories. It also offers a great view point to see the Kohima city. We also met few local Naga girls here in their traditional dress.We enjoyed walking around the beautiful hill town and interacting with local naga people who are inhibition free and very welcoming.
Day-7: 11 April’26: Kohima to Viswema (by taxi), trekking to Dzukou valley: Stay: tent (Rs 1000).
Today, we planned to visit Dzukou valley, a hidden gem on the border of Nagaland and Manipur. We took a sharing taxi (Rs 120 per head) from BOC taxi stand to Viswema and then a jeep (INR 1500) upto the start point of Dzukou valley trek. Taking a guide (Rs. 2000) is also mandatory. The trail ascends gradually, requiring 2-3 hrs hike and then another 2 hours nature stroll within the valley concludes at a charming rest point. Total distance is around 8-9 km from the starting point. We reached there at around 2 pm and hired a tent (Rs 1000) & blankets.
After having our packed lunch, we roamed around the lush green meadows and water streams. The stunning trails and the sweeping emerald landscape of the valley is really awesome. I have done many treks in Himalayas but I can say, you can’t find a such a great view in one day trek anywhere in India.
Dinners were available at the camp site but we skipped dinner and slept at the tent.
Day-8: 12 April’26: Return to Kohima: Trekking + taxi; Stay: Hotel Eden
We woke up early. We captured some morning views of the valley in our eyes and in mobile and packed up for return. In spite of threatening from rain, we were lucky to escape it and descending was quite easy. We reached to the starting point at 8 am and called the jeep driver. This time we got two boys from delhi to share our jeep upto Viswema. Being Sunday, all shops were closed and even sharing taxis for Kohima were not available.
We planned to visit “Naga Heritage Village” at Kisama. One cab driver agreed to give us lift upto Zakhama and then we walked upto Kisama. The heritage village is designed in the form of an ancient Naga village to give an authentic feel of culture and tradition travelling back in time. The famous hornbill festival takes place at this venue in the month of December every year.
After visiting this village, we hired a cab to return to our hotel in Kohima. In the evening, we again roamed around city to see world war cemetery, Raj bhawan, etc. I have loved this Kohima city and I will rate it above popular hill stations in Himachal Pradesh and Uttarakhand.
Day-9: 13 April’26: Kohima to Longsachung (Wokha): 70 km:
Stay: The Exotic Hotel (woffy 8132917872, Rs 1000).
Today Kumar planned to return back and I started my cycling towards Wokha. It was pleasure to cycle through NH2 where green hills on side and beautiful valley on other side and a different landscape at every turn till I reached Tseminyu. I had my lunch here. After Tseminyu, gradual climb starts and I was looking for any Homestay/ hotel for night halt. Finally, I got a place for night halt at Longsachung (just 6 km before Wokha). Initially he denied any room but seeing my exhaustion, he agreed to provide me a room and provided a simple dinner (roti and subji).
Day-10: 14 April’26: Longsachung to Doyang: 42 km;
Stay: Doyang Tourist Resort (8413846839/ 7005026367), Rs. 1500.
After my DIY breakfast, I started paddling to Wokha. Wokha town is very dusty and I felt lucky to have stayed at Longsachung. From Wokha to Doyang, road was downslope and beautiful. I met few cyclist boys on the way. I also met Mr. Ricky (a banker) who was travelling with his wife in his car. He is also a cyclist and shown interest in my tour. He suggested me to stay at Doyang Tourist Resort.
Doyang is famous for its Hydro project, Doyang reservoir and the pristine natural beauty. It attracts migratory Amur falcons from Siberia and China. The Doyang tourist resort is located at the top of the hill. I had to push my bike for 5 km to reach the resort. The resort was built by Government but now managed by a private party. Views from the room to the Doyang river, dam, etc was mind blowing. Rooms are very big but not properly maintained. I had my dinner at the restaurant.
Day-11: 15 April’26: Doyang to Golaghat (Assam): 70 km;
Stay: Nambor Guest House (9864286200, Rs 800)
When I was getting ready to move after breakfast, I found that the rare tube is punctured. With great difficulty, I got it replaced with a new one and moved towards Merapani (Assam). I thought, road will be descending but it is not. There were many stiff ups and downs for about 40 km. I had to push my bike for long distances. Suddenly, I saw Mr Ricky whom I met yesterday. He was going to his office (SBI). He suggested to load my cycle in his car and he dropped me upto his office at Baghty (10 km). He also offered me breakfast at a roadside shop. After Baghty, I continued cycling to Merapani. Half of Merapani lies in Wokha district of Nagaland and half lies in Golaghat district of Assam. Apart from the lotha naga, there are many Gorkhas and Bangladeshi migrants lives in Merapani in Nagaland thereby changing the social structure of the town.
However, as soon as, I entered in Assam, scenarios changed. Assamese people were in festive mood for bohag Bihu celebration. Children were performing traditional Bihu dances and folk songs in vibrant traditional attire. I witnessed many such performances at many houses. Many people invited me to have traditional pithas (rice cakes) at their houses. They were all praising my cycling endeavours.
The entire 25 km ride from Merapani to Golaghat was full of Bihu. I reached to my pre-booked guest house in the evening. after freshening up, I walked around the market area and had dinner at a restaurant. But due to rain, I couldn’t venture out much to witness bihu celebration.
Day-12: 16 April’26: Golaghat to Bokakhat: 48 km:
Stay: Greenwood Homestay (8638257731, Rs. 900)
I was waiting for some cycle shop to open so that I can buy a spare tube. But I couldn’t find the particular size (700X45C with presta valve) in any shop here. So I started cycling at 9 am towards Numaligarh. After cycling in the hills of Nagaland, now cycling in plains surrounded by tea estates was very relaxing.
Population in this area are tea tribes (multi-ethnic communities). They are the backbone of any tea gardens in any part of India since British era. I found that the children of tea tribes were also celebrating Bihu in their own way.
I took lunch at Numaligarh Dhaba which is a very popular restaurant on AT road (Assam Trunk road). I wanted to visit Kaziranga national park. So, after lunch, I moved to towards Kaziranga via AT road. There were lots of traffics on the road. I reached Bokakhat in the afternoon and checked in a Homestay. In the evening, I saw villagers in groups visiting the houses for Bihu celebration. I also joined them and participated in there celebrations.
Day-13: 17 April’26: Bokakhat to Numaligarh: cycling 16 km;
Stay: Whirlwind Food court & resort (9435506433, Rs 1200 including dinner):
Early morning, I travelled in a bus from Bokakhat to Kohora, the main entrance gate for Kaziranga National park. My Homestay owner gave me the contact number of a jeep driver (Nipen- 9365309713) who organises safari at Kaziranga. With the help of Nipen, I got a sharing safari jeep (Rs 1000). During our 2 hours safari, we could spot few one horned Rhinoceros, asiatic wild water buffaloes, elephants, swamp deers and migratory birds.
After safari, I went to “Kaziranga national orchid and bio-diversity park” at Durgapur village, 5 km away from Kohora gate. There are around 2000 species of orchids nicely stacked in the park and their guides explain about orchids so nicely that even commoners will fall in love with orchids. Apart from the orchid farm, they have herbal garden, bamboo park, Gorkha museum, Assam heritage museum, food court, etc. There is a tribal cultural centre with an open stage where continuous performances of Assamese dances like Karbi bamboo dance, Bihu dance, etc. happens. The total complex is a happening place and very good to spend a day here. Entry fee for this beautiful park is only Rs. 200 for Indian Nationals.
I returned to bokakhat at 1 pm. Home stay owner lady offered me some homemade pithas to eat. Thereafter, I packed my bags and started cycling towards Jorhat via AT road. Numaligarh is only 16 km from Bokakhat. However, I thought to take a break here as I could not find any suitable place night halt before Jorhat. In the evening, I walked to Numaligarh dhaba where Bihu performances were going on in the presence of some political dignitaries. I also got introduced with artists and dignitaries.
Day-14: 18 April’26: Numaligarh to Jorhat: 55 km;
Stay: Radhika Homestay (9954455573, Rs. 800):
Cycling from Numaligarh to Jorhat was easy on AT road with plenty of tea estates on both sides. I reached Jorhat by 1PM. I found a cycle shop “pedal street (09706048966)” nearby and bought a spare tube. Cycle shop was very good and they cleaned my cycle at free of cost. Homestay owner provided me homemade lunch and dinner (Rs.150 each meal). I didn’t go much inside the Jorhat city as I didn’t find anything interesting.
My night stay at Radhika Homestay was painful as there were lots of mosquitos and there were no water in the bath room at night. Actually, the owner was new in homestay business and he does not know how a Homestay needs to be maintained.
Day-15: 19 April’ 26: Jorhat to shivasagar: 60 km;
Stay: Nivisa (the Homestay)(Aruj: 7896615209)
I started early after a painful night. Riding from Jorhat to Shivasagar is through the AT road. I reached shivasagar at 1 pm. I got a very good homestay. It is a fully furnished one BHK apartment with kitchen, TV, refrigerator, AC, dining table, etc. Owner is a friendly person and he is a sports person. He provided me the apartment at a very concessional rent. I prepared my lunch and rested.
In the evening, I went to visit the famous Rang Ghar, Talatal Ghar, Vishnu dol, Joysagar tank, etc. Rang Ghar is the royal sports pavilion built by Ahom kings during 18th century to watch traditional games like buffalo fights, cock fights, wrestling, etc during Bihu festival. Now-a-days also, it hosts Assam’s most vibrant and culturally significant Bihu celebration and People from all over Assam come here to witness it. This year, it was celebrated on 14-16 April and I missed this big function just by 2 days.
Talatal ghar (seven stories building with 3 stories under ground) is another landmark building of Ahom kings. It was built as an Army base, two tunnels inside. Now, we can see only the partial ruins. After roaming around the town (Joysagar area) on my cycle, I packed up my dinner from a shop and returned early due to possible rain.
Day-16: 20 April’26: Shivasagar stay: 10 km:
It rained whole night and continued till morning. I prepared my breakfast & lunch and enjoyed the rain from the terrace. In the afternoon, when rain paused temporarily, I took out my cycle and visited the Ranghar area again. I could see some Bihu performances there.
Aruj (owner of the stay) offered me to show the town on his car. At 9 pm, we went to Jaysagar lake, ONGC office and colony, shiv dol, Shivasagar lake, shivasagar town, etc. Shivasagar is a big and beautiful town now, when compared with 1997 when I visited this town for an official visit. There are many hotels, shopping complex, continental restaurants, etc. Aruj was telling that ONGC officials come here as considering a punishment posting but after spending 3 years, they do not want to leave this place.
Day-17: 21 April’26: Shivasagar to Dibrugarh: 95 km;
Stay: Maple leaf Homestay (8638678113, Rs. 1300):
In the morning, I started at 7 am and visited the Shivdol, Devidol and Shivasagar lake before proceeding towards Dibrugarh. I had to take break on and off due to rain. My return ticket from Dibrugarh was booked for 26 April. But seeing the rain conditions, I decided to prepone it and accordingly, I booked a Tatkal ticket for 22 April’ 26 and continued cycling through the AT Road.
I wanted to visit the famous Bogibeel bridge (a 5 km long road cum rail bridge over Brahmaputra) connecting Dibrugarh to Dhemaji. So, in stead of reaching to Dibrugarh, I thought to take a hotel on the Bogibeel road. I spoke with a hotel (Seven sisters resorts) also for night stay. But when I reached to the hotel, they said that all rooms are occupied. So, I had to return back towards Dibrugarh. It was dark and drizzling. I kept my calm and cycled slowly to reach Dibrugarh (Mancotta road) at 7 pm and taken a room at a homestay. After freshening up, I went for dinner at Bornali’s Recipe (07099033932) at East Milan nagar. It was an excellent veg thali (Rs 150 only) which removed all my tiredness.
Day-18: 22 April’26: Boarding train for New Delhi: cycling 20 km:
In the morning, I took out my cycle to see the mighty Brahmaputra. This river is the life line of the city and at the same time, it is a big challenge during monsoon. A 32 km long DTP (Dibrugarh Town Protection) dyke have made to prevent flood water entering the city. I cycled on this dyke for 1 hr. Cool weather after the rain, made it very enjoyable. Dibrugarh is the hometown of ex-CM of Assam, Shri Sarbananda Sonowal. After cycling through the city, I came back to my Homestay and packed up bags as I have to vacate the room before 11 am.
Keeping my luggage in the reception, I went to visit the famous Lord Jagannath temple. It is a nice temple complex built by ex-governor of Assam shri JB Patnaik. Thereafter, I went to Dibrugarh railway station to book my cycle. After booking my cycle, I came to Bornali’s recipe for lunch and then collected my bags from the Mapple leaf and returned to the station. I had booked a dormitory bed in the retiring room where I rested for few hours before boarding Rajdhani express (12423) for New Delhi at 8.50 pm. As soon as I boarded the train, I felt I should have stayed in this beautiful city for few more days.
This way I completed a wonderful trip spanning 18 days, cycling for total 630 km across Nagaland and upper Assam. Major findings of this trip was my own discovery of wonderful Kohima city, Dzukou valley trek, Kaziranga orchid and bio- diversity park and the enthusiastic Bihu celebration in Assam.
Anukul Mandal
Mob. 9818738602
Email: anukul1962@gmail.com
YouTube: Anukul@cyclingbeyondlimits
Blog: https://cyclistanukul.blogspot.com
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