Cycling in Arunachal Pradesh: Gateway to serenity

After exploring Meghalaya, I decided to travel to Arunachal Pradesh, another North Eastern state of India on my bicycle.  As the name suggests, it is the land of rising sun (Arun). Here exits the first village of India where sun rises first for India. It is the home of many monuments and historical sites. It is also said to be the gateway to serenity.

An Inner line permit is required to enter Arunachal Pradesh due to security reasons and to safeguard local cultures. I obtained e-ILP (Inner line permit) for Arunachal before starting my North East tour.

Day-1: 23 April’24: Guwahati to Ledo (by train)-Jairampur (Arunachal) (by cycling, 32 km):

I boarded train (Intercity express, 15603) from Guwahati on 22 April’24 at 11.40 pm and reached Ledo (the last rail junction in Assam in that direction) at 1.30 pm next day. I collected my cycle from the parcel room and hanged my pannier bags on it. After eating lunch (Veg. thali) at a dhaba outside the station, I put my feet on paddle. It was a sunny day but heat was not unbearable and the road was almost flat. I cycled progressively increasing my speed and passed through Jagun (a neat & clean small town in Margarita tehsil in Tinsukia district of Assam).

I kept on cycling and reached Arunachal Pradesh border at Jairampur (Changlang district) in the evening. I had to show my Inner line permit to the Arunachal police at the check post. Then I was looking for an accommodation for night stay and I found a forest rest house (for Rs. 1000) which is run by a family (8413043351). It was not very clean but I managed to stay.

Day-2: 24 April’24: Jairampur to Namsai: 69 km.

I was ready to move early in the morning. But I could start only after 7 am as I had to collect my insulin pack from the Owner’s fridge. I was cycling through the famous Stilwell road (named after American General Joseph Stilwell) which was constructed during world war-2 from Ledo (India) to Kunming (china) via Myanmar. It is a nice road with full of greenery on both sides. Battalions of Assam rifles kept on greeting me. I reached the site of cemetery of world war-2 soldiers. I visited the historical site and the museum there. Thousands of world war-2 soldiers (African, American, Indian & British)  were buried here over a land of 3 acres. Not all soldiers were died in the battle field but due to disease like malaria, dysentery, etc. during the construction of Stilwell road. There is a Museum too showcasing the rare photos of that time.   

I wanted to go up to the Myanmar border check post and to visit Pangsau pass. But due to ongoing general election, visitors were not allowed to go beyond Nampong. So, I turned back and started cycling towards Namsai. I took a very good forest road which is not recognized by Google. Some taxi driver told me that being a border state, Google maps do not work well here. After riding for about 25 km, I reached to the highway which is detected by Google. I kept on cycling through the excellent roads which are constructed and maintained by BRO. I crossed the Arunachal University of Studies on the way. I reached Namsai at 4 pm. After looking for hotels here and there, I finally got a very good home stay (Hewly home stay, 9862708997) at a concessional rate (Rs. 1000). After freshening up, I went to visit the Buddhist temple and then I roamed around the Namsai market. It is an excellent town which is very lively.

At night, the owner lady offered me excellent homemade dinner at her dining table. It was an excellent Home stay with spacious room, kitchen and gardens. Anybody plans to visit Namsai at any time, must try to stay here.

Day-3: 25 April’24: Namsai to New Kherem (Chowkham): 48 km

As there was a kitchen with my room, I prepared my breakfast (oats, protein and tea) and got ready to move. Owner lady again invited me for coffee. She also suggested me the routes for my further journey. I was moving towards Giant Buddha statue at Laal pahar near Lathao. After reaching Lathao, I was in a dilemma about visiting that place as it was 5 km off-route and the road condition was extremely bad and I was more worried about my cycle. I finally decided to visit that place. It is a spiritual complex in making with Giant Buddha statue, meditation hall, cottages, etc. I was happy to visit the place.

I came back to the highway (NH-15) and cycled towards Golden Pagoda (known as Kongmu kham in local Khamti language) at tengapani near Chowkham. It is a beautiful monastery complex. I spent about 1 hr there. Then I cycled past Chowkham and moved 8 km further in Wakro road. I took a room at a Homestay (Saamkhey Homestay, 7002930059) at New Kherem. It was nice and I rested well.

Day-4: 26 April’24: Visiting Parasuram Kund (by car).

I had the plan to visit Parasuram Kund near Wakro (Lohit district). The Homestay lady suggested me to go there in public transport as cycling would be tough. Accordingly, I was looking for any public transport on the road. I got a lift in a scooter upto Medo. But I could not find anything thereafter. It was a very cloudy and windy day. After waiting for an hour, I decided to come back to my room. Suddenly, there came one person (Mr. Vikram Mannyu) in his car. He asked me about where I want to go. When I said, I want to visit Parasuram kund, he took me in his car. I was little apprehensive about the unknown person at unknown place. However, Mr. Vikram was a very nice gentleman and he introduced himself as the chairperson of the local panchayat. He showed me the entire place such as Parasuram temple, Parasuram kund, vibrant lohit river, Organic tea garden, Wakro town, Eklavya School, rare orchids, etc. I took a holy dip in the sacred kund to wash away all my sins. I was amazed to visit the entire area and Mr. Vikram was like a Devdut for me. It was impossible for me to visit those areas without his kind help. He dropped me at my Homestay. We ate lunch (traditional Bamboo shoots Thali) together. I thanked him from the core of my heart. I will remember him forever.

In the evening, I roamed around the Kherem area in my cycle and visited the nice park in the drinking water treatment plant complex.

Day-5: 27 April’24: New Kherem to Roing: 70 km.

I started early in the morning and rode upto Chowkham tinali (T-joint) and rode towards Alubari Ghat. After Alubari Bridge (2 km long bridge over lohit river), there is another tinali with Tezu in one direction and Roing in another direction. I took the Roing road, through the dense forest for 30 km without any house or water source. I saw a big snake crossing the road. So, without any halt, I cycled continuously and reached Bhismaknagar. It is a heritage site consisting of the ancient remains of chutiya kings (a Bodo kachari ethnic group who ruled this place in the 11th century).  As there were no shops nearby, I begged hot water from a house to make tea. After visiting the place, I was looking for lunch. I got a restaurant after cycling for another 10 km under the hot sun. After lunch and some rest, I continued cycling towards Roing and the tall entrance gate of Roing town was standing there to welcome me. I took a room at a lodge (D.S. Hotel, 9436048161). In the evening, I roamed around the beautiful Roing town (lower Dibang valley district).

Day-6: 28 April’24: Stay at Roing (due to rain):

It was raining heavily for the whole night and continued till morning. I got stuck up for the whole day. As soon as it stopped in the afternoon, I came out with my cycle to visit the local spots. I went to deopani bridge view point and the sally lake inside the forest. It was a serene lake with long trees all around. There, I met one BRO person (Mr. P Mandal). He invited me at his quarter for tea. Then again it started raining and so I came back to my room quickly. In the evening, I went to meet another family (Mrs Joba Nath, niece of my college friend Ashok Paul). Then I ate dinner at a restaurant and returned to my room. I thank to rain God for my forced stay in Roing, otherwise I would have missed to meet those two nice families.

Day-7: 29 April’24: Roing to Sisiri (Dambuk):(50 km).

I started cycling towards Pasighat which is about 105 km from Roing. I thought it would be difficult to ride 105 km in one day. I was looking for a mid way halt. I crossed dambuk (36 km) and with the help of a local shopkeeper, I found a place to stay at Sisiri (near Sisar Bridge). It is basically a dhaba (8119800491) and they put up a tent for me. After freshening up, I went to the river bank and there is a picnic spot. People said that there are lots of drug addicts who visit that spot in the evening. So, I didn’t venture out much and confined myself within the tent. They provided me dinner and breakfast. I paid them Rs.1000 including everything.

Day-8: 30 April’24: Sisiri to Pasighat (55 km):

From Sisiri to Pasighat, it is dense forest for about 30 km and roads are having many ups and downs. I cycled continuously without any break and reached Pasighat (East Siang District) by lunchtime. Pasighat is a smart town having some cycling tracks. College going children greeted me on the way. I took a room (Rs.1000) at hotel Bandhu (08415009790). After bath and washing clothes, I went to komlighat to see the beautiful Siang River. I cycled on the river bank for some time. It was excellent. Then I roamed around the city before the rain.

Day-9: 1st May’24: Pasighat to Murkongselek (36 km cycling) to Harmuti (Assam, by train):

In the morning, I came out of hotel with all my baggage and went to Pasighat market to get my sandals and heating coil repaired. As the shops opened late, I could start cycling from Pasighat at 10 am. I cycled through beautiful villages, meeting wonderful people on the way. Roads were almost flat. I reached Ruksin (small town bordering Assam) at 1 pm. After taking lunch there, I went to Murkongselek railway station (Assam) and boarded the train (Dekargaon express, 15814 at 3 pm) with my cycle. The train journey from Murkongselek to Harmuti (via Dhemaji, North Lakhimpur, etc.) was another amazing experience as I got opportunity to interact with many Assamese people who were very friendly and kind. I got down at Harmuti station at 7 pm.  There is only one hotel near station (hotel Starland). I took a room there (Rs. 500). It was reasonably ok.

Day-10: 2nd May’24: Harmuti to Itanagar (44 km).

I started cycling towards Itanagar. I again entered into Arunachal Pradesh and reached Doimukh (Papum pare district). Then as per Google maps, I cycled towards Naharlagun for reaching Itanagar. Oh my God, road in Naharlagan was terribly bad due to construction of a new flyover. It took me about 2 hrs for 6 km. I had to push my cycle all along. From Naharlagan to Itanagar, road was very stiff climb and it was a very hot sunny day. So, I was extremely tired to reach Itanagar. I was looking for the Art of living ashram at Itanagar. Again, Google showed me wrong location. As a result, I had to cycle 12 km extra to reach Art of living ashram at Jully road, Jollang, Itanagar. It is a very beautiful Ashram surrounded by lush green hills on all sides and a perfect place for meditation. They provided me a room and I rested for the day.

This was the end of my 10 days cycling tour in Arunachal Pradesh, starting from Jairampur and ending at the Capital city of Itanagar. I have cycled total 425 kms through 10 districts of Arunachal Pradesh.

Next 4 days (3rd to 6th May’24): Visited Ziro valley & Majuli Island (by car).

Two of my friends from Delhi (Prabir da & Desraj) joined me at Itanagar. We hired a car (driver Jaan Bukan, 8259933545) for visiting Ziro valley and Majuli Island (Assam). We visited the Ganga Lake, ITA fort, state museum and Buddhist temple at Itanagar before proceeding to Ziro valley. We stayed two nights in Ziro, one night at hotel Zimiñ Ziro and another night at a home stay (mob no. 8575272818). We visited the Siikhe Lake (where we did boating), Seeh Lake, kasa resort, Siddheshwar temple, etc. It is a beautiful valley town with scenic mountains around, full of greenery, paddy fields, lakes, etc.  We enjoyed this valley.

Next day, we went to Majuli Island (Assam). It is the biggest river island formed by Brahmaputra River in one side and Subansiri river in other side. We crossed the Subansiri River in a ferry alongwith our car. It is a place of serene natural beauty, a calm quiet and peaceful place. It is famous for satras (vaisnavite monasteries), mask making and manuscript printing. We stayed at a very good Homestay (Ayang okum, 9435546455) at a cottage made of bamboos on the bank of Luhit River. We visited the major satras, mask making factory and important places. We thoroughly enjoyed this place.

We returned to Itanagar on 6 may. Then on 7th may, we boarded the train (Arunachal express, 22411) from Naharlagun along with my cycle and reached Anand Vihar station (Delhi) on 9th may’24 to conclude the unforgettable tour of Arunachal Pradesh.

I am thankful to my friend Ms. Kirjum Lollen (an Art of Living teacher from Arunachal) who inspired me to visit Arunachal and to get Inner line permit.  I am also thankful to my college friend, Ashok Paul who helped me to find my routes and stays. I express my deepest gratitude to all the Homestay owners who have provided me rooms at very concessional rates.. Finally, I am indebted to my cycle (Scott sub cross 30) for its untiring service without any complaints.

To summarize, my cycling tour in Arunachal has been wonderful. I have visited the Historical sites, beautiful monasteries, temples, lakes & rivers. I rode across numerous green forests and dawn-lit mountains. I supremely enjoyed cycling here as roads are excellent with very few vehicles on the road. Above all, I interacted with the local tribes in all ten districts that I have passed through. Tribes in different districts are different in looks and dresses but they all are simple, peaceful & kind and most of the them understand Hindi. I did not face problem with food as standard thali (both vegetarian & Non-veg) are available throughout the state. I wish I would have spent some more days to explore this beautiful state, the gateway to serenity.

Jai Guru Dev!

Anukul Mandal (9818738602), New Delhi

Anukul1962@gmail.com