Cycling in Georgia: Where Europe Starts: Part-1

Cycling in Georgia: Part-1: Tbilisi to Uplistsikhe:

Georgia is a country where the Europe starts, is separated from USSR in the year April,1991. Its historical and cultural significance is the cross road between Europe and Asia. I had a long time wish to visit this country but never thought it would on bicycle. This time, me and my cyclist friend Mr. PH Patil (who was my partner for cycling trip in Srilanka in December’2024) planned to cycle across Austria, Slovenia & Croatia. But our Schengen Visa application got rejected. We were little upset and immediately we planned for this trip in Georgia. I am exempted for Visa requirement for Georgia as I am holding valid US Visa. Patil applied for E-visa. As soon as he received the E-visa, we booked our tickets at Indigo airlines, which has a direct flight from Delhi to Tbilisi. He reached to my home at Delhi on 12 May’25. We boarded flight (6E 1807) on 13 May'25 at 1940 hrs.

Day-1: 14 May’25: Reaching Tbilisi: 20 km cycling

We reached Tbilisi Airport (capital city of Georgia) at 1 am on 14 may'25. Our immigration process was absolutely hassle free. We had pre-booked a guesthouse at Tbilisi where check in was allowed only after 12 noon. So, we planned to spend the time at the airport till morning. One taxi driver came into our help. He took the phone number of our guest house and communicated with the host in Georgian language and managed to arrange our early check in. So, we boarded his big van (80 gel) to reach our guest house (Apartment on Xancteli, sharden, Tbilisi , +995 574117050) at 2 am. It was a very small room (60 gel~ 1900 INR) but we slept well till 8am. 

After breakfast, we assembled our cycles and we wanted to get it checked by any cycle mechanic. In search of a cycle shop, we roamed around the city on our bike. We reached to a cycle monument (Gaint Bicycle Monument). It was a nice spot. Thereafter, we found a cycle shop to get cycle fittings checked. Then we visited the waka park, Turtle lake area, etc. but we had to return back early as it started raining. With the help of available utensils, we prepared our dinner (Rice + sambar) in that small room. 

Day-2: 15 May’24: Tbilisi sight seeing: by walking: 

Rain continued in the morning. We shifted to a bigger room (by paying additional 30 Gel).  Host lady (Teona Kupatadze) was very kind. She permitted us to keep our bike boxes inside the box bed till the time we return to Tbilisi after completing our tour on 4 june’25. It was a great help, otherwise it would have been very difficult to find a place to store the boxes. 

Tbilisi city is situated on both banks of Mtkvari river (also known as Kura river). Our guest house is located at the heart of the city. In the evening when rain took a break, we came out to walk around the freedom square and visited the old town, Trinity church, etc. 

Georgian breads are very famous for its variety and deliciousness. At dinner, I ate one such bread called lobiani (stuffed bread filled with beans, 3 Gel). It was very tasty and filling. Rain continued for the whole night.

Day-3: 16 May’25: Tbilisi to Sagarejo: 75 km

Luckily rain stopped in the morning but it was cold and windy. We started our cycling journey at 7 am towards the Chronicles of Georgia (16 km), a monument that’s depicts the history of 3000 years of Georgia. The road is along the Kura river.  Here, traffic is very disciplined and gives priority to the pedestrians and cyclists. We reached the Chronicles of Georgia at 10 am. We visited the place to learn some imperial history of the country. 

After visiting the place, we moved towards Sagarejo. We passed through an excellent scenic road beside the big Tbilisi natural water reservoir and after 20 km, it joined the kakheti highway (S5) which was very busy with large number of vehicles. Last 20 km to Sagerajo was climb and we reached there at around 6 pm. We had a pre-booked room (Guest house Sagarejo, +995 598162211, 32 Gel +5 Gel for washing machine). Sagarejo is a small peaceful municipality known for wineries. We roamed around the town in the evening, prepared dinner (khichri) and slept well.

Day-4: 17 May’25: Sagarejo to Sighnaghi: 62 km:

We started early morning after breakfast (Vermicelli Upma). We rode through the kakheti highway (S5). There were vineyards on both sides but very few houses. Street side vendors are selling home made cheese, wine and churchkhela (made from walnut dipping in grape juice and thickening it with flour). We tasted some of the products in some shops. 

Last 10 km to Sighnaghi was stiff climb and the cobblestone roads were under construction. We had to push our bikes. But after we reached our guest house (hotel Luca lili, 56 gel, +995 599240938) at Sighnaghi, we felt all our efforts were compensated. It was an excellent guest house with twin bed room, large living room, fully furnished kitchen, etc. After freshening up, we went to visit Sighnaghi walls. These walls are the remains of the fortress built in 18th century as a sanctuary for those seeking refuge from the invaders. Sighnaghi is a beautiful town with cobblestone streets, alleys, restored original woodworks, etc. gives it a romantic look and it is a popular wedding venue. We roamed around the city for couple of hours. 

Day-5: 18 May’25: Sighnaghi to Telavi: 65 km:

From sighnaghi, it was downslope for about 10 km. Then we took the Bakurtsikhe- Gurjaani bypass. There were no villages/shops on this bypass. At Akhaseni, it joined the main road (E42). We could find some localities. We ate Ajarski khachapuri (boat shaped Georgian bread) with curd. After lunch, we were sitting on a bench in a park. Suddenly, few cute school children (mostly girls of 5th or 6th standard) became curious about us and came to talk with us. They wanted to know many things about India and told us many things about Georgia. They taught me few sentences in Georgian language. They invited us in a auditorium to see their rehearsal of a dance program. We also got introduced with their parents. We went inside but could not wait to see their practice as we were getting late. 

After saying goodbye to the cute children, we continued cycling towards Telavi. We meet two twin brothers (of 50 years) on the roadside. They invited us at their home. They introduced us to their aging mother. She offered us to eat many things such as raspberry, walnuts, khachapuri, biscuits, coffee, chacha, etc. They don’t speak english but their hospitality and body language was very touching. They requested us to visit them again with our families. 

After emotional farewell from the family, we continued cycling. The last 10 km to Telavi was climbing and we had to push our cycle. We reached Telavi at 6 PM and straight way went to visit King Erekele-2 fortress which closes at 6 pm. It was a beautiful complex with museum, school, lawns, etc. After visiting the fortress, we reached to our Homestay (Hotel Classic, 50 gel, +995 574158850). It is a nice home stay with common kitchen and washing machine. We washed our clothes, prepared food and slept well.

Day-6: 19 May’25: Telavi to Tianeti: 65 km:

We started cycling towards Tianeti via E42. Road was smooth and plain until Akhmeta. We visited the Akhmeta SHP (small hydroelectric power plant). Thereafter climbing starts. We had to cross the Gombari Pass (1620 m) to reach Tianeti. We were finding it very difficult to push our cycle. It was complete forest with no human habitation. Suddenly, one gentleman stopped in front of us with his big van. He told us (in body language) that his van is empty and we can put our cycles in it. He dropped us near Tianeti after crossing the Gombari Pass. I strongly believe, God has only sent him to help us, otherwise, we would have found it very very difficult to reach Tianeti before sunset.  

We paddled the last 4 km to reach our Homestay (Hotel Tianeti green, +995 593909485). It is a very beautiful house with kitchen, swimming pool, courtyard, garden, washing machine, etc. We paid the highest rent (85 gel) so far. We washed our clothes and prepared our food and slept well. 

Day-7: 20 May’25: Tianeti to Mtskheta: 55 km:

From  Tianeti, we started cycling towards Mtskheta. There were some climbs and then it was downslope until the Military Highway that connects Tbilisi with Russia border. We visited the God of mother church on the way. 

It was very tough to cycle on the Military highway as there were lots of big trucks and other vehicles. We cycled very carefully and reached Mtskheta by 4 PM. Our pre-booked Homestay had no proper kitchen. So we looked for another hotel but it is very difficult to find any suitable place. Finally, we found a very good homestay (Guesthouse Dariali, +995 593606442, 50 gel). 

In the evening, we went to visit the famous church (Svetitskhoveli cathedral) of Mtskheta. There were many tourists along with few couples for their pre-wedding shooting. Like many other churches, it is located inside a fortress. We roamed around the fortress and visited the church. It was a nice evening we spent. 

Day-8: 21 May’25: Mtskheta to Stepantsminda & back (by cab): no cycling:

Today, we hired a cab (200 gel) for visiting Ananuri, Dudauri and Stepantsminda (Kazbegi). Stepantsminda is a townlet, located at 157 km north of Tbilisi, at an elevation of 1740 m. We traveled through the military highway and visited the Ananuri fortress complex, viewed the great Caucasus mountain range from Gudauri before reaching Stepantsminda. We roamed around along the terek river, enjoyed the mesmerising views of Kazbegi mountain and natural landscape at Stepantsminda. This is very a popular place for snow sports in winter. Larsi check post with Russian border is only 10 km from here. 

We returned back to Mtskheta. We visited the cathedral complex again. We prepared our dinner. Owner lady was so kind that she helped us to cook our food in her kitchen. 

Day-9: 22 May’25: Mtskheta to Uplistsikhe: 64:

My partner prepares food every morning, it is bisibela bhat or upma or bread omelet. After breakfast, we started cycling towards Uplistsikhe via Mtskheta- Gori main road. It was along the Kura river (the same river which flows in Tbilisi) with green hills on other side making it very scenic. 

We reached to our pre-booked Homestay (Uplistsikhe Guest “Paluma”, Mari +995 571087386, 48 Gel). After freshening up, we went to explore the Uplistsikhe (pronounced as uplisikhe, i.e st is silent), the ancient cave town of Georgia. We visited various parts of the complex (entrance fee 20 gel) including the main cave temple, royal palace, Amphitheatre, museum, etc. 

Our Homestay was excellent. It was a big house. The host family offered us to eat many things such as own grown walnuts, home made cheese, milk, etc. It was enough for our dinner. 

This way we have completed our cycling journey in eastern part of Georgia. In this part-1, I have cycled for 386 km through the scenic wine routes. Roads were excellent with many ups and downs. Pleasant weather kept us fresh. Tomorrow, we will move towards Gori and then Kutaisi. I have broken the article in two parts so that it is not too lengthy. Pl follow part-2 of my blog on the same subject for my further journey in western part of Georgia.

Anukul mandal

Mob: +91 9818738602

Email: anukul1962@gmail.com