Cycling in Georgia: Where Europe starts: Part-2

Cycling in Georgia: Part-2: Uplistsikhe to Batumi and back to Tbilisi:

I reached Tbilisi on 14 May’25 alongwith my cyclist friend PH Patil. We cycled in the Eastern part of Georgia for 9 days till 22 May’25 and reached Uplistsikhe. The fabulous journey is detailed in Part-1 of my Blog on the same subject. 

Now, follow me on Part-2 for my journey from Uplistsikhe to the Western part of Georgia. 

Day-10: 23 May’25: Uplistsikhe to Khasuri: 72 km:

After bidding farewell to the host family (guest house Uplistsikhe), we started cycling towards Gori (10 km). Gori is the birthplace of Joseph Stalin, Ex-prime minister of undivided USSR. This city has its own charm with its retro and soviet detailing. There is a museum for Stalin. We roamed around the city for some time and moved towards Kutaisi through highway (E60). 

Cycling on highway is never so enjoyable but there was no other way. We had to cross a big tunnel (873m). There is no designated track for cyclists or slow vehicles inside the tunnel. There were lights but I wish it would have been more bright. you will always get lots of noises inside the tunnel due to traffic and echoing of sounds. It made us very scary and we had to paddle close to the shoulder. We were on the extreme edge of the road where debris, obstacles, nails and other sharp objects cannot be eliminated. Suddenly, we found that Patilji’s rare tyre is punctured. We changed the tube and continued cycling. 

There were no villages on the highway. We decided to have a night halt at a place called Khasuri, 9 km away from highway on borjomi road. We had prebooked a guest house (Metreveli 19). Upon reaching there, we found that it is not comfortable and the host lady is non cooperative. We decided to book another guest house (Gvirilas Sakhli, +995368246462, 70 Gel). It was good with specious room, kitchen, washing machine but toilet in different floor. We prepared dinner (rice + dal + boiled vegetables)and slept well. 

Day-11: 24 May’25: Khasuri to Zestaponi: 60 km:

After having our DIY breakfast, We started our day for cycling towards the highway (E60). Highway is through the mountains and we had to cross 26 tunnels of different lengths, longest being 1750 m. Total distance inside the tunnels would be around 20 km. Road was little downslope and traffic was comparatively fewer. It was a very thrilling journey through the picturesque mountains and valleys. 

We decided to take another night halt at Zestaponi (30 km before kutaisi). Zestaponi is a small municipal town on the bank of river kvirila which flows between the mountains. 

One thing I must mention here about Georgia, there are not many public toilets on the road sides. Many a times, we had to do open defections. In Zestaponi, we faced a strong criticism from a group of workers who noticed our open defections. 

We reached to our pre-booked hotel ‘Hotel in Georgia’( +995 599404855, 49.5 Gel) at Zestaponi. There was no proper kitchen but the care taker lady was very cooperative. She showed us 3 different rooms to choose from and provided few utensils whatever she had. In the evening, we went to the market place to buy groceries and vegetables. 

Day-12: 25 May’25: Zestaponi to Kutaisi: 50 km:

From Zestaponi to Kutaisi is only 30 km. So, we decided to start late at around 10 am and continued cycling via E60. Excellent road but no more tunnels today. Last 10 km was ascend with road twisted through densely forested hills and sun splashed ridges. It felt like riding through a still from a nature documentary green velvet mountains rolling into the horizon, each curve ahead promising something new. We reached to our pre-booked hotel (Hotel comfort, +995596799799, 114 Gel for 2 nights) by 1.30 pm. It is a nice Homestay at the heart of city with common kitchen, AC, washing machine, etc. After check in and grabbing a shower, I headed out for a khachapuri (cheese filled bread), baked fish, cutlet (total 11 gel), salads with hot green tea. After a sumptuous lunch, we headed for Motsameta Monastery. 

 

The monastery is picturesquely located on the cliff of a promontory in the curve of Tskaltsitela river. We pushed our cycle for 4 km and paddled for 2 km to reach there. The monastery complex and the surroundings are so good that all our efforts proved to be worth. There is another famous monastery named Gelati monastery. We could not visit the same as it was temporarily closed. 

We returned to our guest house, prepared our dinner (rice + sambar) and slept. 

Day-13: 26 May’25: Kutaisi site seeing: By walking:

In the morning, we walked around the city to see kolkha fountain, white bridge (on Rioni river), beautiful parks, Opera House, etc. White bridge is glass top at places to view the river below and vehicles are not allowed. 

In the afternoon, we visited the century old Bagrati Cathedral by walking and in the evening, we again roamed around the beautiful city, its marketplace, localities, etc. 

kutaisi town may not be a cosmopolitan like Tbilisi but it punches well above it’s weight in charm in the perfect blend of history and natural beauty and a laid back vibe that whispers, “why rush?”

I wish, I come to this city again with my family sometime in my life. 

Day-14: 27 May’25: Kutaisi to Martvili: 58 km:

After our DIY breakfast (vermicelli Upma), we started cycling towards Martvili. Beautiful road, mostly flat with greenery on both sides. We reached to our pre-booked guest house (Guest house Luka, +995 593912061, 108 Gel for 2 nights). It is an independent bungalow with all facilities. 

Owner lady is a qualified doctor. She was born and brought up in this house. Now she works at the local hospital and stays in her husband’s house. She still maintains this house including its garden, courtyard, etc. she has kept bottles of country made wines for the guests.

After shower, we went to visit the Martvili Canyon (5 km). It is a river erosion canyon over abasha river (height upto 40 m) with deep green water. The lushing water falls, dramatic cliffs, boating, etc makes it tourist attraction. Entrance fee is 20 Gel. 

Martvili is a small peaceful municipality famous for its splendid fall foliage, trees change the colour of the leaves from green to red, orange, yellow at different seasons before falling.  

Day-15: 28 May’25: Visiting Okatse Canyon: (by car): 

Okaste canyon is 23 km away from martvili and last 5 km is stiff climb. So we decided to hire a cab (to and fro, 70 gel). Entrance fee is 20 Gel. From the ticket counter, we had to walk for 2 km through the forest and then 1.5 km on the stairs and suspended boardwalks over the Okaste river. It is a natural masterpiece of Georgia with stunning views of river, lakes, waterfalls and greenery. Its height is around 70 metres and structural platform have been made for excellent vertical view of the canyon. It is a must see spot in Georgia.

Day-16: 29 May’25: Martvili to Poti: 80 km

With rain in the forecast, we decided to start early. Patil ji made excellent bisibela bhat and omelette in the morning. We grabbed half of it  and packed the rest for our lunch. 

we were heading towards Black Sea in the western end of Georgia. Roads are either plain or descending with very few vehicles on the road. Weather is also excellent for cycling. Patil says, it is the best road we have cycled so far. There are beautiful houses on both sides of the road but mostly vacant. We finished our packed lunch sitting in front of one such house. 

As we were passing through the locality, suddenly 3 teenager girls came running from their house to have a selfie with us.  People here are free from inhibitions and hesitations. 

We reached poti, a port city on Black Sea, at 5 pm. Rain started as soon as we reached to the guest house (Gegidze 24, +995 5933 91818, 70 Gel). There was no kitchen but we managed to prepare some khichri with our own utensils and induction heater (patil carried it from his home). 

As it was raining, we could not venture out much in the city. 

Day-17: 30 May’25: Poti to Kobuleti: 50 km:

We moved towards kobuleti via E70. We crossed past Parmen Zakaraia Nokalakevi Archaeological museum on the way. We could not visit as it was not open by that time. Hospitality is in the DNA of the Georgian people. As we stopped near a shop for lunch, few people sitting there offered us wines and a school boy helped me to get a hot bread (lubiani). 

We reached to our guest house (Alex’s house, +995514070400, 60 Gel for 2 nights) in kobuleti in the afternoon. It is a nice Homestay (managed by an elderly couple) with all facilities. Here we met few elderly couples from different parts of Europe. They stay in a city for weeks before moving up to another. I always wished for such travel after my retirement. In the evening, it was again raining.

Day-18: 31 May’25: kobuleti stay: 24 km: 

Today, we visited the Shekvetili’s Musicians park (12 km from Kobuleti towards poti). It is a captivating destination that harmoniously blends music, art and nature offering visitors an immersive musical and unforgettable nature experience in one spot. There are life sized statues of 36 world renowned musicians and the motion activated speakers play each artist’s music creating an immersive soundscape. It is totally underrated coolest public park with no entrance fee. Don’t miss out if you ever visit west Georgia by Black Sea.

 

Kobuleti is a small town but very popular for beach lovers. In the evening, we walked on the clean beach of Black Sea. 

Day-19: 1 June’25: Kobuleti to Batumi: 45 km:

We have chosen coastal road (E70) towards Batumi, the second largest city of Georgia. On the way, we saw the Petra fortress-a 6th century Byzantine stronghold in Tsikhisdziri. We saw its ruins, palace, defensive walls, etc from outside as it was not open by that time. We continued cycling but leisurely as Batumi is only 30 km away. 

We reached to Batumi central station to enquire about train or bus journey from Batumi to Tbilisi. We found that transfer in bus is much more costly.  So we booked our reservation in train (35 gel + 5 gel bicycle) for each for 3rd June.  

We reached to our pre-booked guest house (BST Holiday, 55 gel, near the railway station. After check in and freshening up, we came out to visit the tourist attractions of Batumi on our bike. We reached to alphabetical tower (130 meters tall tower with 33 letters of Georgian alphabet). 

We visited the monumental moving sculptures of Ali and Nino. There is a famous love story about Ali, an Azarbizan Muslim and Nino, a Georgian princess. The two giant metal statues (known as statue of love) slides towards each other and again gets separated in a 10 minutes automated performance. The show is lit with bright changing colours that give the figures even more life than their stark metal bodies. 

We enjoyed the show along with many tourists. Then we walked alongside the Black Sea and visited the boulevard fountains before returning to our guest house. 

Day-20: 2 June’25: Batumi stay: Rain: No cycling:

It was raining for the whole day. We wanted to visit the Turkey border at  Sarpi. But we could not come out of the room. So, we prepared food and watched the rain from balcony. 

Day-21: 3 june’25: Batumi to Tbilisi (by train): 10 km cycling:

We got ready by 6 am and cycled to Batumi Railway station to board our train at 8 am. We removed the front wheel of our bike and tied with the frame. We loaded the bikes in the same coach where we had reservations and kept them near the doors. It was comfortable.

We reached Tbilisi at 1.30 pm and cycled upto our Guest house (Apartment on Xancteli, sharden area). In the evening, we roamed around the Tbilisi town on foot. We visited the famous Narikala fortress, Bridge of peace, liberty Square, etc. 

Day-22: 4 June’24: Return to Delhi (by air):

In the morning, we went for a walk along the kura river. After returning to room, we prepared our lunch and vacated the room at 12 noon. We packed our cycles in the box. Then we went a mall to do last minute shopping and converted our excess Georgian Lari (GEL) into USD. At 5 pm, we hired a big car (60 gel, Givo, +995 558 927630) to get transferred to Tbilisi airport. We boarded our Indigo flight to Delhi at 1.55 am on 5 June’25.

This way we concluded our cycling tour in Georgia for total 22 days for 835 km. We have visited all major cities like Tbilisi, Gori, kutaisi and Batumi, all tourist destinations like sighnaghi, mtskheta, Stepantsminda, Uplistsikhe, martvili, kobuleti, etc. 

The landscape of Georgia which changes in every turn, mountains, Black Sea, moderate pollution free climate and the peace loving helpful people of Georgia are the major contributors of our unforgettable experience. 

After going through my blog, if you need any further information, please write to me. 

Anukul mandal 

New Delhi (India)

Mob: +91 9818738602

Email: anukul1962@gmail.com