Cycling on the footsteps of Lord Rama: Part-4: South Chhattisgarh:

Cycling on the footsteps of Lord Rama: Part-4: South Chhattisgarh: 

I started my cycling journey on the footsteps of Lord Rama from Ayodhya (birth place of the Lord Rama in Uttar Pradesh, India) on 20 feb’24. 

So far I have documented my journey as under:

Phase-1 (Part-1&2): 20 Feb'24 to 5 March'24: Ayodhya (UP) to Maihar (MP): Covering 689 km in 14 days.  

Phase-2 (Part-3): 15-24 Oct'24: Shahdol (MP) to Ambikapur (Chhattisgarh): Covering 355 km in 9 days. 

After a forced rest day at Ambikapur, I boarded the Ambikapur-Durg Express (18242) at 10.30 pm for Uslapur (near Bilaspur) to continue my journey towards South Chhattisgarh to visit the places where Lord Rama stayed or visited during his 14 years exile. 

Day-11: 26 oct’24: Uslapur- Ratanpur- Bilaspur: 60 km:

Stay: Ramakrishna Mission, Koni (near Bilaspur):

When I woke up in the morning, I saw my train is already at Uslapur station and the compartment is almost empty. I was frightened and got down quickly with my luggage. As the bicycle was not booked against PNR, I had to collect my bicycle from the Percel office after 8 am. Generally, it is possible to collect it from the platform if it is booked against PNR.

After having some tea and poha from a roadside shop, I started cycling towards Ratanpur. On the way, one couple (lecturer of a local college) who were riding on their motor bike offered me breakfast at a nearby shop. At Ratanpur, I visited the shri Ram Tekri temple which situated on a hill. It is a beautiful hillock shrine houses granite idols of Lord Rama, sita and hanuman and offers panoramic views of the historic town. It is believed that Lord Rama stayed here. Thereafter, I went to visit Shri Girjabandhu Hanuman temple and finally to the Siddh Shakti Peeth Mahamaya devi temple. It is said that King Ratnadeva (kaluchuri king) had a dharshan of Maa Kali at this place and Ratanpur is famous for this temple. 

After darshan of Mahamaya Devi, a collected a lunch coupon (Rs. 20) from a  dharamshala and finished my lunch. There were many rooms available in the temple complex but I decided to move towards Bilaspur. As I was reaching to Bilaspur, I found beautiful serene Ramakrishna Mission at Koni (7 km before Bilaspur). After a long wait, Maharaji came out and provided me a bed for my night stay. In the evening, I attended the Sandhya Aarti and I had the opportunity to have a special dinner along with Maharajji. I also met few ardent devotees (Mr Ram Kumar Dwivedi et al) and they became my friends. 

It was a nice evening I spent at Ramakrishna Mission. 

Day-12: 27 oct’24: Bilaspur- Bhainso: 40 km

Stay: My childhood Arabindo’s House

I got the opportunity to have breakfast (luchi, sabji, sweet) along with Maharajji. After taking his blessings, I started moving towards Shivrinarayan. On the way, there is a small village, named Bhainso, where one of my school friend (Dr. Arobindo Biswas) lives. He is a RMP doctor, specialist in curing anal fistula. I reached to his clinic at 12 noon and I met my dear classmate after long 47 years since we left school. He took me to his residence and his wife (Deepa) prepared sumptuous Bengali food. He is a very popular personality in the locality. He took me to many houses and introduced me to many people. We discussed many childhood memories in the night. 

Day-13: 28 oct’24: Bhainso - Shivrinarayan- Kasdol: 60 km.

Stay: PWD Guest house, Kasdol

In the morning, Arobindo took me in his scooter to visit the Didneshwari Devi temple at Malhar (16 km from his home). It is highly revered temple in the locality. After coming back, I had breakfast at his home. As I was getting ready to move, some of his friends came to meet me. After emotional farewell from my friend, I started cycling towards Shivrinarayan. On the way, I stopped at another place called Rathod. Here, another RMP doctor (Dr. Ameo Roy) has established a big clinic cum nursing home. He is also from my home town Bagula (WB). Apart from the clinic, he owns a big private school there. 

After spending some time with him, I again started cycling and reached kharod at around 1 pm. Here, exits the famous laxmaneshwar temple built by Lord Rama and his brother Laxmana. There is a unique shivlinga with 100000 holes, known as Laxmalinga. One of the hole is considered as “Patala gami”(underworld-bound) hole as any amount of water is poured, it disappears. It was lunch time and there were no restaurants nearby. I asked the priest if I can get some food and they provided me a proper meal from what they prepared for themselves. 

After visiting this temple, I moved to Shivrinarayan (5 km). It is the birth of shabri mata who offered  berry fruits to Lord Rama after tasting it's sweetness. I visited the main Shabrinarayan math, ancient shivrinarayan mandir, statues of shabri mata along Lord Rama, Laxmana and Sita Mata. The town is spread over the sangam of 3 rivers, Mahanadi, Shivnath & Jonk and it is little congested and so I decided to move further. 

I cycled for another 20 km to reach to a town called Kasdol (district Baloda bazar). I found a PWD guest house there. After a long reiteration to the concerned officers, I could find a room there at free of cost. It was a big room with AC and attached bath. I washed my clothes and ordered a tiffin box for dinner.

Day-14: 29 oct’24: Kasdol- Turturiya- Sirpur: 65 km

Stay: Govt. Guest house, Sirpur

From kasdol, I started cycling along the Sirpur road. After 20 km, I had to ride for 5 km on village road inside the forest to reach Turturiya Valmiki Ashram. It is said that Sita Mata stayed in this ashram and her sons Luv and Kush were born here. It is a beautiful ashram nestled in the serene forest on the bank of river balamdehi. As soon as I reached there, it started raining. Pujariji showed me the temple complex and invited me for lunch. 

After the rain stopped, I returned back to Sirpur road and proceeded to sirpur (Mahasamund district). Sirpur was the capital of Paduvanshi dynasty in ancient times. There are many monuments consisting of Hindu, Buddhist and Jain temples. I again managed to find a government guest house at Sirpur. But it is not property maintained. As it was already evening, I could not visit any temples. Ordered some food from a local restaurant and slept.  

Day-15: 30 Oct’24: Sirpur- Arang- Champaran: 73 km

Stay: Vallabhnidhi Kradam Ashram Dharamshala, Champaran: 

In the morning, I visited historical monuments of Sirpur such as Laxman temple and museum, Buddha vihar, ruins of Rama temple, Surang tilla, Gandheswar temple etc. Laxman temple is a beautiful 7th century brick temple, mostly damaged and ruined. But carvings are reasonably intact to be studied. There is a museum where several recovered statues from the ruins are kept for the visitors. The Rama temple (100 m away) has however does preserve the foundation outline of several shrines as well as brick stub of the original Rama temple. Buddha Vihar complex consisting of Swastika vihara, Anand Prabhu vihara, Teevardeva monastery, etc. has been excavated in 1950s. There are many statues of Buddha, shiva, padmapani, etc. along with building foundations which has been recovered from the excavation are preserved. 

Thereafter I visited the Surang tilla and Gandheshwar temple dedicated to Lord shiva, located on the bank of Mahanadi River. It is believed that Lord Rama visited this temple. The Charan paduka of Lord Rama is installed here by our trust, Shri Ram Sanskritik shodh sansthan Nyas. I would say, in spite of being a historical city and so much to offer to the visitors, sirpur has not received much tourist foot fall and as a result, not many hotels or infrastructure have been developed. 

After having breakfast at a roadside shop, I started cycling towards Arang (Raipur district). It is also a temple town and it used to be capital of King Mordhwaj of Haihaya dynasty. I visited the Bageshwar Mahadev temple here which was established by Lord Rama. Many people suggested me to visit Champaran (24 km from Arang), the birthplace of Saint Vallabhacharya, founder of Vallabh Sect). So, instead of staying at Arang, I moved towards Champaran. 

I got an excellent AC room (Rs 1200) at Vallabhanidhi dharamshala. After bath, I reached to the temple complex. The beautiful complex has many temples like Ram Janaki temple (built by Nishad community), Shiva temple and Shri Mahaprabhuji Prakatya baithakji. The main temple is  built on the samadhi of Saint Vallabhacharya and it opens only for few minutes at around 7 pm. I was lucky to have darshan and also participated in the prayer. After prayer, they provided sumptuous dinner. It was an eventful day and blessed evening. This complex is managed and funded by devotees mainly from Gujarat. 

Day-16: 31 oct’24: Champaran- Rajim : 27 km: Deepawali day

Stay: Radhakrishna Mandir Guest house, Nawapara, Rajim 

I spent the morning to revisit the temple complex. Then started for Rajim at 10 am after having breakfast at the guest house. Rajim being only 27 km away, I reached there by 11.30 am. On the way, one person (Mr. Domen Vaishnav) travelling in his motor cycle, requested me to stay at their Ashram at Nawapara. I was reluctant as it located in a busy area and away from main Rajiv lochan temple. But finally I could not refuse him and he provided me an AC room at free of cost. 

After freshening up, I took out my cycle and went to visit the temples. I reached to Rishi Lomesh Ashram on the other bank of the Mahanadi river. Lord Rama visited this Ashram to meet Rishi Lomesh. I kept my cycle at this Ashram and walked on the bridge to reach Kuleshwar Nath mandir. It is located on an island at the sacred triveni sangam of Mahanadi, Pairi and sondur. It is believed that Mata Sita established the kuleshwar mahadev shiva linga here. It is known to be the family deity of King Janaka (father of Mata Sita). It is a beautiful temple connecting two architectural shrines, one for lord shiva and other for Goddess Jagdamba. 

After visiting the temple, I walked to famous Rajiv Lochan Temple. It is 7th century Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Being Diwali day, it was illuminated with colourful lights and there were no crowds. I sat inside the temple for long time and meditated in front of Lord Vishnu and pujari ji helped to perform and Aarti. After visiting these temples, I returned to the guest house. Being Diwali evening, most of the restaurants were closed. I could find a Jain bhojanalay for my dinner. 

Day-17: 1 Nov’24: Rajim -Dhamtari: 53 km: My Birthday

Stay: House of Jigu didi (Tejal’s sister):

1st Nov is a special day for me. It is my official birthday. I wake up early and started cycling at 6 am towards Dhamtari. Very nice village road with almost no traffic and I reached Dhamtari (Jigu didi’s house at amaltaspuram) by 11.30 am. She warmly welcomed me with garlands and flowers. They provided me a separate spacious room to stay. Jigu didi informed all their relatives about me and they all came to meet me. 

In the evening, one of their stuff took me in his scooter to show me the important places at Dhamtari. We visited the Rudreshwar Mahadev temple and Adi Shakti Angarmoti temple. Lord Rama walked along the Mahanadi river for many days during their exile and visited many temples on the bank of Mahanadi including the Rudreshwar temple. Then we went to Gangrel dam site. It is a beautiful tourist spot. We did boating on the back water of the dam. It was a nice evening I spent here. While returning, we visited the famous Bilai Mata mandir at Dhamtari. 

Jigu didi prepared a traditional Indian meal with many dishes. Then she arranged cakes to celebrate my birthday. I was overwhelmed as I never expected such an arrangement. It was an unforgettable experience and I will cherish it forever.

 

Day-18: 2 Nov’24: Dhamtari -Kanker: 75 km

Stay: Hotel Bafna Lawn (09407726406, Rs. 1760)

I wake up early and I was again surprised to see that Jigu didi has prepared breakfast (Idli) in the morning. Hospitality does not end here. When I came out to wear my shoes, I found the Jigu didi has washed my socks also. I don’t know why God makes me so much indebted. My identity is, I am her brother’ friend and I met her for the first time in my life. I can only pray, may God keep them happy and healthy. 

After an emotional farewell from their house, I started cycling towards Kanker. Everything looks good when your mind is happy. Roads are beautiful, people around looked kind and affectionate. I reached Kanker at 2 PM. Mr Raju Kothari (a Ram bhakt from Kanker) suggested me to stay at this hotel. After bath and lunch at the hotel, I cycled to Gadhiya temple at Gadhiya hill. It is a historic hill fort of local kings, known for it’s strategic importance and religious significance. Lord Rama came here to meet Rishi Kark in a cave. After visiting this scenic place, I returned to my room and ate dinner at a dhaba. 

Day-19: 3 Nov’24: Kanker-Bhanpuri (120 km by bus)- Chitrakote (30 km cycling);

Stay: Thakur Lodge (Rs.1500), 9406084582:

To reach Chitrakote from Kanker, one has to cross a mountain with serpentine path and hairpin bends. Local people advised me to avoid cycling in this road. So, in the morning after breakfast at hotel, I went to Kanker bus stand and boarded a bus (sleeper coach) from Kanker towards Jagdalpur. My cycle was loaded at the roof of the bus and I was worried regarding the potential transit damage. Road condition was very bad with lots of dusts. 

As advised by bus conductor, I got down at Bhanpuri (120 km from Kanker) and then cycled for 30 km to reach Chitrakoot. I took a room at Thakur Lodge, right next to the famous Chitrakoot waterfall on Indravati River. The waterfall was visible from my balcony. It is a 29 m drop horseshoe shaped beautiful waterfall, called “Niagara of India”. In the evening, I went near the fall and took a boat ride. Boat ride was excellent. They took very near to the water fall offering us thrilling up-close view of the cascading water and we got splashed also. After the boat ride, I walked in the nature trail and visited the shiva temple which has connections with Lord Rama. 

Day-20: 4 Nov’24: Chitrakote-Keshloor (42 km):

Stay: Aaradhya International hotel, keshloor (9584303333, Rs. 1350):

In the morning, I walked around the waterfall again to enjoy the morning view. Thereafter I cycled to Dandami luxury resort (a Chhattisgarh tourism resort) and had buffet breakfast there (Rs. 200). At 10 am, I started towards Keshloor. I chose to stay at Keshloor because important places like Tirathgarh waterfall, Kotumsar cave and Dhantewara are easily accessible from this place. 

Day-21: 5 Nov’24: Keshloor- Dantewada & back (by bus)- Jagdalpur (60 km cycling):

Stay: Hotel Ashoka (near to Jagdalpur station, 07782-222966, Rs. 1000):

Keeping my cycle and luggage at the hotel clock room, I boarded a bus for Dantewada. I visited the famous Danteshwari Mata temple, a revered Shakti peeth. According to Hindu legend, the tooth (dant) of goddess sati fell at this location. Danteshwari mata is considered as kuldevi for the state of Chhattisgarh. I was lucky to reach at right time to attend the morning Aarti also.

After visiting the temple, I came back to Keshloor by bus. After lunch, I took out my bicycle for Tirathgarh waterfall. Tirathgarh waterfall is a stunning 90-meter tiered waterfall (formed by Mungabahar river), located inside the beautiful kanger national park. It was an excellent ride of around 20 km through the dense forest and seeing spectacular waterfall made my day. I couldn’t visit the kotumsar cave as was closed. 

I returned to my hotel at Keshloor at 5 pm and collected my luggage and cycled to Jagdalpur (20 km). After checking in the hotel, I went to visit the Jagdalpur city, the bastar palace and Danteshwari temple (one at jagdalpur also). I found the Jagdalpur city a nice vibrant city, contrary to its perception as maoist disturbed city. After a very eventful day, I went to bed after having a sumptuous Rajasthani thali at Suruchi restaurant. 

Day-22: 6 Nov’24: Jagdalpur to araku (by train):

Stay: Hotel Rajdhani (Araku):

Today, I boarded the Kirandul vishakapatnam passenger train (58502) from Jagdalpur at 9.55 am along with my cycle for Araku. Local people helped me to load my cycle in the passenger coach and kept it near the toilet. The train passed through rural villages and towns like Jeypore, Koraput junction (Orissa). It was very interesting to interact with the locals. They speak a language which is mixture of Chhattisgarhi, oria and telegu. Their simple lifestyle and innocence talks fascinated me. I spent six hours observing them. I got down at Araku station (a scenic hill station at the eastern ghats of Andhra Pradesh) at 4 pm and took a room at the hotel at station road. 

Day-23: 7 Nov’24: Araku stay: 

 

Stay: Haritha Hill resort (Mayuri)

Today my friend, Prabir ghosh Dastidar joined me at Araku. He arranged a spacious suite at APTDC resort (complementary based on his official connection). I shifted there in the morning and Prabirda reached at around 12 noon. The resort was excellent with peaceful surroundings, natural beauty and calm atmosphere. In the afternoon, we visited the tribal museum, Padmapuram botanical garden, Araku pinery, etc. and we also tasted some local foods. Bamboo chicken is very famous here. People say that preparation of bamboo chicken without water and oil originated from this place.

Day-24: 8 Nov’24: Visiting Borra caves (by cab): no cycling: 

Stay: Haritha Hill resort (Mayuri)

Today we hired a cab for visiting Borra caves. The road passes through scenic hills with lots of coffee plantation. On the way, we reached to Galikonda viewpoint which offers breathtaking panoramic views of Araku valley. 

Borra caves is a natural wonder featuring massive limestone formations including stunning stalactites and stalagmites, beautifully illuminated by colourful lighting. It is a photographic paradise. There is a shiva temple (natural formation of shiva linga) at the extreme peak inside the cave. After spending over an hour, we returned back to Haritha resort. 

Day-25: 9.11.24: araku to Vizag (by bus):

Stay: Guest house

In the morning, after complimentary breakfast at the resort, we visited the coffee museum which offers an informative journey through coffee history in the region and offers various blends of coffee to taste and handicrafts for purchase. In the afternoon, we boarded a bus for Visakhapatnam. My cycle was booked separately in the same bus. Prabirda's friends welcomed us at Visakhapatnam. They arranged a Govt guest house for us. 

 

Day-26: 11 nov’24: Returning to Delhi

Visakhapatnam is a good coastal town. We visited the beach, Ramakrishna mission, Kali temple, etc. I booked my cycle in the AP express. We had a group dinner with Prabir da and his friends at a restaurant. At night we boarded the train for Delhi. 

This way, I concluded my part-4 of cycling journey on the footsteps of Lord Rama in south Chhattisgarh and ending at Andra Pradesh.