Cycling in Vietnam: The Timeless Charm: Part-1: Hanoi to Quy Nhon
Cycling in Vietnam: Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh.
I had a long time wish to explore the Vietnam, the timeless charm, on my Bicycle. I was looking for a partner. Kumar Abhisek who has done couple of cycling trips with me earlier, agreed to join me for this journey. So, we planned to reach Hanoi (North Vietnam) on 16 february'25 and plan to cycle upto Ho Chi Minh City (also known a Saigon) in South Vietnam.
Day-0: 16 -19 February’25: Reaching Hanoi and visiting nearby places:
I reached Noi Bai International airport (Hanoi) at 8 am (Vietjet airlines from Delhi). My partner Kumar Abhishek from Ahmedabad reached early and waited for me inside the airport only. After hassle free immigration, we hired a mini van (550K vnd) and it dropped us on the main road near our pre-booked hotel (Asia cozy Homestay, Old quarter area, 917290354, 350k vnd). It was little raining and one hotel staff came with a trolley to carry our cycle boxes upto the hotel. We unpacked the boxes and assembled our cycles. After taking bath, we came out with our cycles and went for lunch at an Indian restaurant. We ate masala dosa (costing 550 INR each) which is very expensive by any norms and quality was so so. It is always better to avoid Indian restaurants outside India.
Then we went to visit the Hanoi train street which is a happening place flooded with foreign tourists. There are many shops on both sides of the old railway track. After clicking some pictures, we cycled to Vietnam museum of Ethnology. It is a good museum which displays material culture artefacts from different ethnic groups of Vietnam.
It was very cloudy and cold day and it started raining in the evening, which forced us to buy some warm clothes. We ate local Vietnamese food (pho consisting of noodles, vegetables, etc) at a street side restaurant. It is a famous food in Vietnam but because of it's strong spice we could not like it. .
Next day, we booked Ha long bay day trip (Reina cruise, 900k vnd). After bus transfer to Tuan chau harbour, we were taken in a ship to visit the beautiful Luon caves. then we did kayaking on the sea and trekking to Titoo peak and a sunset party on the boat ended our trip. We were dropped near the Hanoi Railway station at 8.30 pm. We boarded a night train for Lao Cai (sapa) at 10.40 PM for which reservation was done online (https://dsvn.vn/#/). We have kept our cycles and extra luggage at the hotel in the morning itself. In spite of very limited space in the hotel, the owner lady was kind enough to keep the cycles in the compact reception area. This hospitality was just the beginning of what was to come!
We reached Lao Cai next morning at 6.30 am and availed a coach service to reach Sapa. We took a deluxe room at a hotel (Central Sapa Serenity, +84 965999021, 320K vnd,). It was an excellent hotel at the heart of the city. We hired a Scooty for site seeing but unfortunately because of rain, we could not venture out much and contained within the room. We purchased a rice cooker and prepared our food (khichri).
The following day, we booked combo tickets (1000K VND for two) for Muong Hoa monorail and cable car ride (Sun world) for Fansipan. Sapa is renowned for its majestic mountain scenery and awe-inspiring views. But because of clouds, we could not see anything. Only satisfaction was that we could reach upto fansipan (3143 m), highest point of Indo China countries. In the evening, while returning to Lao cai station, we visited the Vietnam-china border (Ha khau-Lao cai crossing). It was a nice site with illuminated buildings on both sides of the border. We boarded night train for Hanoi.
Day-1: 20 feb’25: Hanoi to Phu Ly: 65 km.
We reached Hanoi Railway station at 5.30 am. We walked to Asian cozy house to collect our cycles. We loaded our luggage on cycle, had breakfast (rice soup with tofu & boiled eggs) and started cycling towards Ninh Binh at 8 am. After spending 4 days at Hanoi and Sapa, it was the start of our actual cycling journey. We came out of the city to take National Highway (QL1A). It was a very busy road. We tried to find any parallel provincial roads, but could not find any. So, we continued to ride through QL1A. After the city limits, it became quite manageable. The main railway line (Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh) run parallel to this highway. So there were many railway level crossings. In one of such crossings, gateman invited us to take rest in their office. He also gave us few bottles of drinking water.
We continued to ride and reached to a lively town, Phu Ly. We took a room at a hotel (Khach San Dong Tam, 0226-3883638, 300k VND). In order to find a grocery shop, we walked around the city as nobody sells small quantity of groceries (rice, dal, oils, etc.). Finally, we managed to buy something and returned to our room and prepared dinner.
Day-2: 21 feb’25: Phu Ly to Ninh Binh: 45 km:
After breakfast in the room, we started cycling towards Ninh Binh. We took a diversion from QL1A (10 km before Ninh binh) to reach Trang An Eco tourism complex. It is a beautiful complex drifting along the Trang An river besides the limestone mountains. It is recognised as world cultural and natural heritage site. We took a boat safari (300k VND each) which passes through a network of water filled caves, lush tropical forests, temples and palaces (Dinh, Tien le, Ly and Tran dynasties). After a memorable experience for 3 hours, we again started cycling towards Ninh Binh.
We took a room (Viet Nhat Hotel, 0914580056, 400K VND with breakfast) near Ninh Binh Railway station. We prepared our dinner and slept comfortably.
Day-3: 22 Feb’25: Ninh Binh to Hue (by night train): Cycling 25 km.
Today, we have a plan to transfer in train to the imperial city, Hue in central vietnam. We went to railway station to enquire about cycle booking in the train. We have reservations in night train (SE3). Railway officials informed that cycles have to be booked in different train and advised us to report at 3 pm.
We decided to explore the city on cycle. We went to Tam Coc- Bich dong area and continued our cycling through the villages. There were many cyclists travelling through the villages in the serenity of landscapes. Weather was cloudy and pleasant. It was wonderful experience. Suddenly, I found that the front tire of my cycle is deflated. I took the help of a motor cyclist to drop me along with my cycle to a repair shop. He charged 50k VND and the mechanic also took 50k VND to repair the puncture. We returned to station and booked our cycles for parcel. Here, the system is very smooth and hassle free.
In the evening, we went (by cab) to the Ancient city of Ninh binh (Hoa lu), located at Ky lan lake park. The temple towers in the lake were fully illuminated and there is a small mountain from where you can get 360 degree view of the vibrant city. Street food stalls, souvenir shops, traditional musics, etc. made the surrounding streets a happening place. There was no entrance fee for this complex. It is a must visit place. It is an ancient city but had a young bohemian vibe which I really warm to. I actually recommend spending at least 2 days in Ninh Binh as it really does have a lot to offer. We returned to our hotel, collected our luggage and boarded night train for Hue.
Day-4: 23 feb’25: Hue local sight seeing: 25 km.
The next day saw us arrive in Hue Imperial city. We collected our cycles from Parcel office and then cycled to Dory Homestay (pre-booked, 300 VND). After bath and breakfast (veg sandwiches), we set out (on foot) for visiting Imperial citadel of Hue (an UNESCO world heritage site). It is a massive complex on the bank of perfume river consisting of palaces, temples and fortifications. It was the capital of Vietnam under the Nguyen dynasty. Entrance fee is 200 VND per person.
We retuned to our room and we took our cycles and went to visit the Thuy Xuan Incense making village (7 km from city). It was very colorful with many decorated incense stalls. In the evening, we spent time around the perfume river. Actually, Hue city is nestled on the bank of perfume river.
Day-5: 24 Feb’25: Hue to Lang co: 85 km
We prepare khichdi (rice+dal+vegetables) every morning for breakfast. This gives us a good feeling to start our cycling. We followed towards Thung A beach and then took QL49B (coastal road) towards Lang Co. We enjoyed cycling on the beautiful scenic road for 65 km in pleasant weather. Then the road joined QL1A and there was a long tunnel and cycle was not allowed through the tunnel. We were in a big trouble. It was almost evening time and it started raining. Moreover, we didn’t had proper lunch as we didn’t know that all road side restaurants close by 2 pm. We climbed the mountain by pushing our cycle for about 5 km to reach QL1A and then reached Lang Co at 8pm. We managed to find a room in a Homestay (Nha Nghi An Toan, 200k VND, 0969119574). Nha Nghi means guest house or Hotel. It was reasonably good. We borrowed some utensils from them and prepared our food and slept.
Day-6: 25 Feb’25: Lang Co to Da Nang: 50 km.
It continued to rain in the morning. We put on our rain jacket and started cycling along the Lap A Lagoon which is supposed to be an exciting place but due to rain it was very quite. After about 5 km, climbing starts. We had to push our cycle for 15 km to cross Hai Van Pass (496 m). Hai van pass (ocean cloud pass) refers to the mists that rise from the sea which reduces visibility. It was very scenic with green mountains which juts out into south chain sea. There is a fort at the top (named Hai Van quan). We visited the fort amid rain with low visibility. Then we cycled downhill through most beautiful trails, there were railway lines passing through the tunnels, the sea, islands, etc in the view to make it a wonderful journey.
We reached Da Nang at 4 pm. We had pre-booked our stay at Hotel Bantique (0832951639, 232 VND) near Da nang beach. It was a very good hotel but their kitchen was closed. So we didn’t get utensils. But we managed to prepare food with disposable plates. In the evening, we walked around the beautiful Da Nang beach.
Day-7: 26 Feb’25: Da Nang to Hoi An: 45 km
In the morning, we cycled to visit Lady Buddha (67 m tall statue) known as Goddess of mercy, located in the ground of linh ung pagoda in son tra peninsula. The grand architecture and interesting stories linked with Buddhism makes it a tourist attraction and prayer place for the locals as well as for foreigners. There is no entrance fee for this complex. After visiting the place, we came back to our hotel, packed our luggage and started cycling towards Hoi An. Initially, the road had little climb and then it was the beautiful coastal road with stunning scenery.
On the way, we reached to the marble mountains (a group of five limestone peaks) which is also a tourist attraction. We did not climb to the top. Instead we visited the Nguyen Hung art gallery. Art gallery was excellent display of fine marble works. Just promise me to visit this place, if you are passing through that road.
We ordered lunch at a restaurant near the marble mountain. We found that the food was not fresh. As soon as we informed it to the restaurant manager, they felt so sorry and offered to replace the food and didn’t charge any amount for our entire meals to compensate our inconvenience. This type of sincerity is common in Vietnam.
We continued our cycling towards Hoi An through coastal road (Lac long quan), Road surface was very smooth, there were the paddy fields on both sides and good afternoon golden sun made the journey fastastic. We reached Hoi An at 4 PM and took a twin bed room at a home stay (Hoi An life Homestay, 300 VND with breakfast, 0914064446).
In the evening, we walked to Hoi An ancient town. It has retained its traditional wooden architecture, street plan with buildings backing on river, canal, bridges in its original setting. The entire area including boats, food stalls, souvenir shops, etc. were illuminated with colorful lights. After spending couple of hours in the happening place, we came back to our hotel and prepared our dinner. Hoi An is a picturesque city where someone can easily stay for few days by local cycling and visiting the My Son sanctuary and other historical places. But we decided to move ahead towards Quy Nhon tomorrow .
Day-8: 27 Feb’25: Hoi An to Tam Hai: 70 km
Nowadays, we are eating our own made food in the morning (breakfast) and evening (dinner). We started to ride through HL-15 and then QL14E. It is excellent 4 lane road, running parallel to QL1A (8-10 km away) with much less traffic and having greenery on both sides. After about 30 km, we mistakenly took the coastal road (D129) where road surface was not that smooth. After about another 25 km, it joined QL14E. Then we took a village road to reach the ferry point for Tam Hai Island.
At Tam Hai island, we cycled for 5 km to reach our pre-booked home stay (Nha Nghi Milk’s Homestay, +84984842668, 350 VND). My friend Rajan who cycled on the route just 15 days ahead of us has provided reference of this nice homestay. The owner lady was excellent and she greeted us enthusiastically. She provided us some snacks in the evening and offered to have dinner with her family. She provided us excellent homemade local dinner. She prepared some pork dishes which we refused to eat. That was very embracing for them. She offered to prepare dinner again which we resisted. We spent the evening near the ferry point (towards Quang Ngai). It was very pleasant experience.
Day-9: 28 feb’25: Tam Hai to Mo Duc: 80 km:
After the kind and friendly hospitality, I have made a very big blander. I should have paid some extra money to the lady for snacks and dinner. I still repent for the mistake.
We crossed the Truong Giang river on ferry with our bicycles. We continued to cycle through the QL1A towards Quang Ngai which is only 45 km away. The road was very crowded and not very scenic also. We did not halt at Quang Ngai and instead continued to cycle past for another 30 km to reach to a place called Mo Duc. In today's journey, we cycled mostly through QL1A but sometimes it joins Expressway (CT01) and after sometime, it separates out.
We reached to a homestay (Khach san Sao Mai, 0909700979, 300 VND) based on Rajan’s reference. It was nice but there were no grocery shop nearby, nor there were any restaurants. So, we borrowed some vegetables from a kitchen garden of a house and he also took pain to bring some items from a market on his own scooty. Vietnamese people are extremely helpful in all situations which we are experiencing everyday. Never have I visited a country where the people are so kind and fiercely hospitable.
Day-10: 1 March’25: Mo Duc to Tan Phu: 80 km.
Today, we had to ride through the mix of CT01, QL1A, Asian highway (AH1) and finally the provincial road (DT-639). In the last leg, we had to cross two small hills, both are extremely scenic. In between, there was a nice army memorial. But we could not spent much time there as it was getting dark. We were frantically looking for some Homestay. Based on yesterday’s experience, we were worried about any grocery shop in that lonely hilly area. As soon as we came down to the plain area, we found a village market. Purchasing groceries is always a project because of language problem and small quantities. We purchased raw rice (gao song), dal & vegetables. and then looked for homestay based on Google maps. Finally, we got a very good homestay (Nha Ngai Hoang Chau, 0968413033, 300 VND) at Tan Phu village. We took bath and prepared our meals and slept well.
Day-11: 2 Mar’25: Tan Phu to Quy Nhon: 80 km
We cycled through coastal roads (DT635, 639, 632) towards Quy Nhon. Initially, it was rough road for 10 kms and then it was nice roads with greenery on both sides. We had very nice Thali (rice, vegetables, soup, etc.) at a place called Desi lagoon. As we are moving from north to south of Vietnam, we could get good foods of our taste at restaurants at very nominal price (30-40 vnd).
As we finished our lunch, I noticed the same front tire of my bike is deflated. We found a cycle shop nearby which is run an elderly couple. Knowing that we are from India, she offered us cold drinks. He repaired my cycle very caringly. Finally they didn’t charge anything from us except for a selfie. We were honored by this cyclist couple who have done long cycling trips themselves and run the shop as a passion.
If you found this post useful, I'd be grateful if you write or post a comment on this blog. This will be an encouragement for me.
anukul mandal
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Email: anukul1962@gmail.com
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