Cycling on the footsteps of Shri Rama: Part-2: Chitrakoot Dham to Maihar

I started my cycling yatra on 20^th February’24 from Ayodhya Dham and reached Chitrakoot Dham on 26 feb’24. The detailed descriptions of journey of first seven days are covered in Part-1 of my blog, titled “Cycling on the footsteps of Shri Rama: Part-1: Ayodhya to Chitrakoot.” The second part starts from Chitrakoot on 27 feb’24 as under:

Day-8: 27 Feb ’24: Chitrakoot stay: 50 km cycling

I stayed at Anand dham lodge at Kamadgiri road near Ramghat, chitrakoot. In the morning, I went to visit Janki kund (where sita used to take bath) and Sphatik Shila (Sita used the smooth glass like rock as mirror). There are many stories about these two places  where Sita and Rama spent considerable time. One such story is that Indra’s 2 sons (Mayank & Jayant) kept evil eyes on Sita Mata here. After visiting these spots (500 meter apart), I started cycling towards Sati Anusuiya temple. Suddenly, it started raining and I was forced to stop at a bus stop. As rain didn’t stop for hours and I was feeling very cold, I decided to return to my room.

In the afternoon when rain stopped, I decided to visit Ram Saiya and Bharat Kup temple. After the rain, weather was very pleasant and I enjoyed cycling on outer periphery of kamadgiri hill to reach Ram Saiya (10 km) (Shri Rama had taken rest over a big stone here).  After cycling for another seven km, I reached Bharat kup temple (a beautiful temple where all four brothers of Rama are worshipped). Apart from the temple, there is a holy well. It is believed that Bharat collected waters from all sacred rivers to perform the crowning ceremony of Rama. But when Rama refused to return, on the advice of Sage Atri, the same water was poured into this well. I drank some holy water from the well and cycled back to my room.

Day-9: 28 Feb ’24: Chitrakoot stay: 50 km cycling

Today, weather being very good, I started cycling to Sati Anusuiya temple early in the morning.   Anusuiya was the wife of Sage Atri and she was called Sati for her dedication and love towards her husband. It is believed that it was Sati Anusuiya’s prayer and devotion that led to creation of Mandakini River which brought an end to the famine in the town. I took a holy dip at Mandakini River and visited the beautiful temple.

Then I started moving towards Gupt Godavari (16 km). The Gupt Godavari is a cave system with knee high water levels. The larger cave has 2 stone thrones that belong to Rama and Laxmana. The Gupt Godavari, the secret river appears from a cave and disappears into crevices after about 20 metres. It is believed the Godavari came here secretly from Nashik to have glimpse of Lord Rama. So, she is called Gupt Godavari.  I visited the caves and the Ram Janki temple. I had my lunch at a dhaba and started moving towards Hanuman Dhara.

Hanuman Dhara is situated at a mountain where people have to climb 360 stairs to reach. It is believed that Hanumanji, after he burned Lanka, came here to extinguish his fired tail.  I kept my cycle at a tea stall and went to Hanuman dhara by cable car. After visiting the Hanuman Dhara, I climbed further through steps to reach Sita Rasoi. It is believed that Sita Mata cooked food for Lord Rama here. Few symbolic kitchen utensils are also kept here. It being the highest location in Chitrakoot, entire town can be seen from this place.

After visiting the place, I came back to my room. In the evening, I again went to Ram Ghat for evening aarti and then to Bharat ghat (which is 100 m away from Ram ghat but situated in Madhya Pradesh) for another round of aarti. Then after finishing my dinner at a restaurant, I came back to my room and slept.

Day-10: 29 feb’24: Chitrakoot to Dharkundi: 70 km cycling

Today, after a wonderful 3 days in Chitrakoot, I set for Markundi ashram through hanuman dhara road. It was gradual climb but very scenic with green mountain in one side and lush green valley on the other side. After about 6 km, I reached koti tirth & devangana. Shri Rama used to visit these places to meet the meditating sages. I could not go upto the ashram as it was difficult to carry my cycle through the steps. Luckily, the present maharaj of the ashram (shri sultan ji)was waiting on the main road as he was going somewhere. I took his aashirvad and started paddling through the mountain road with forests on both sides. After for about 30 km, there is a diversion towards markundi ashram. The ashram is on the foot hill inside the forest. I had to ride through a half moon periphery through gravel road to reach to the Markundi ashram. It was very hot and I reached there at 2 pm. Pujari was resting after his lunch. Somehow, not very willingly, he asked his assistant to make two rotis for me. Then suddenly few politicians came to the ashram. This ashram is very famous here and local politicians tries to take political mileage showing their patronage for the ashram. They also involved me in their conversation with pujari and took group photos. After the politicians left, pujari started speaking abusing languages about these leaders. I didn’t like this place as the pujari was very bad. As it was very hot outside, I rested for some time in the ashram and then started moving towards Sri Paramahans Ashram,  Dharkundi.

Sri Paramahans ashram is situated at Rosoiya village inside the tiger reserve forest. It is a beautiful ashram complex established by Param Pujya Sri Dharkundi Maharaj. I reached there in the evening. They provided me an empty room. I cleaned the room and put up my mattress. After washing my clothes and having bath, I roamed around the ashram to see the caves, water falls and natural beauties all around. I also participated in the Sandhya Aarti and prayer along with many ashramites. It was very nice experience to interact with them. We ate dinner together.

Day-11: 1 March’24: Dharkundi to Satna: 80 km cycling

In the morning, I went to visit the Aghamarshan kund (within the ashram complex). It is believed that Pandavas drank water from this kund during their exile period. I had my breakfast in the ashram. All ashramite sanyasis requested me to stay one more day there to attend their knowledge sessions. But due to my pre-planned schedule, I moved forward towards Sarbhanga ashram. Now, after completing my yatra, when I remember the pious atmosphere of the Ashram, I regret, I should have stayed at least one more day in that beautiful ashram.

I reached Sarbhanga ashram during lunch time. I visited the Ram Janki temple there. Some Bhandara was going on at nearby Fakkar baba ashram. After having Prasad in the bhandara, I went to visit the Ashwamukhi ashram (1 km). Then again I started cycling and reached to Sutikshan Muni ashram (7 km). All the 3 ashrams were visited by Lord Rama.

I moved towards Birshingpur. On the way, I met a group of school children and I conducted a session for their empowerment. It was a nice session and all children were motivated to do something in their life. At Birshingpur, I visited the Mahadev temple. It was already evening and I was looking for some accommodation for night halt. As I could not find any good option to stay, I continued cycling towards Satna.

It was dark. I put on the front and back lights on my cycle and continued cycling. Just before reaching Satna, roads were very bad due to ongoing construction of a bridge. I continued cycling slowly and with great difficulty, I reached Satna at 9 pm. I took a room at a hotel (Hotel Royal Inn) for Rs. 900. As I was very tired, I ate dinner at a dhaba and slept.

Day-12: 2 March’24: Satna to Maihar: 65 km cycling

It was raining in the morning. So I started around 9 am towards Maihar. After cycling for about 20 km, I saw the sign board for Bharhut Stupa (6 km off route from the Highway). I wanted to visit this place. But I was worried as weather was cloudy as if rain may fall at any time. But some local people encouraged me to see this historical place.  It was one of most important centre for Buddhism teachings. Many of the Bharhut remains are now located in the Indian museum in Kolkata (I have seen those railings at kolkata). Little remains are avaiable at the site now.  Mr. Raj Kamlesh Prajapati (the care taker) showed me the entire place with remains of stupas, caves, arts, etc. and  he also explained the stories behind it. It was an excellent experience.

 After visiting this historical place, I again moved towards Maihar. On the way, I visited the Art Gallery (Ichol Art) where resident artists and craft enthusiasts are encouraged to promote creative arts. I was amazed to see the displayed arts which have been devised from the scraps & recycled materials.

After reaching Maihar in the evening, I was looking for a room. Suddenly, the owner of a hotel (Hotel City palace) invited me to stay in his hotel. He provided me a very good room at a subsidized rate (Rs. 700).

Day-13: 3 March’24: Maihar stay: 20 km cycling

Maihar is known for the Maa Sharda Mandir. It is said that when Lord Shiva was carrying the body of the dead mother Goddesss Sati, her necklace (har in hindi) fell at this place and hence the name Mai-har. I kept my cycle at a stall near the temple and went to visit temple in cable car. Being Sunday, it was very crowded but it was nicely managed. I had very nice darshan of Maa Sharda.

There is another temple (Alha dev temple) situated downhill behind the Sharda temple. I went to visit the same but it was not well maintained. Thereafter, I took lunch at a dhaba and went to visit the Shri Ram Janki mandir and Prachin Shiva temple. It is believed that Shri Rama performed puja at this Shiva temple.  

Maihar is also famous for Maihar Gharana (refers to place where musical ideology originates) founded by Ustad Allaudin Khan. While returning from the temples, I went to visit Allauddin khan’s house/museum where many musical instruments and photos of renowned musicians have been preserved. As Ustad Allaudin Khan was a great devotee of Maa Sharda (saraswati), several pictures and images of Hindu deities are also kept at his residence. 

Day-14: 4 March’24: Maihar to Satna to Anand Vihar (by train):

I planned to return to Delhi because of some family commitments. So, I boarded a train (Jabalpur Rewa express) from Maihar station with my cycle. One staff of the City palace hotel helped me to put my cycle in the last coach of the train which is meant for disabled persons. I reached Satna Junction comfortably. I booked my cycle in the Rewa Anand vihar express (12427) and reached Anand Vihar terminal in the next morning.

This way I completed second part of my cycling journey from Chitrakoot Dham to Maihar on the footsteps of Shri Rama. I have cycled total 335 km in 7 days.  I have visited the important places like Chitrakoot, Markundi, Dharkundi, Sarbhanga, Birshingpur, Satna and Maihar and the major temples therein where Lord Rama put his feet during his exile. I wish to restart my journey soon, may be in the next winter.

Jai Shri Ram

Anukul mandal (9818738602),Delhi

Anukul1962@gmail.com