Cycling in Meghalaya: An unexplored Paradise

Cycling in Meghalaya: An unexplored paradise

Meghalaya is a tiny hilly state in North-East part of India. It houses three mountain ranges-Garo, Khasi and Jaintia. Because of geographical shape of these mountains, Meghalaya gets the highest rainfall in the earth, turning it a little paradise of misty mountains, lush green valleys and rain forests. 'Megh' means cloud and 'alaya' means abode and so the state is called the 'abode of clouds'. 

I wanted to explore this beautiful state on my Bicycle in the month of April'24. It is difficult to find a like minded cyclist of similar pace, so I decided to do this trip solo. After 27 hours of train journey (Rajdhani express, 12424) from New Delhi, I reached Guwahati (Assam) on 4th April’24. I stayed at a hotel (Vian Inn, Mob. 6003218922) near Guwahati Junction.

Day-1: 5th April’24: Guwahati to Nongpoh: 50 km:

I woke up early morning, completed my pranayama & kriya, packed my bags and got ready for cycling. When I came out of the hotel at 7 am, I found that it was raining. As I was very excited to start my trip, I wore rain protective jacket and put my feet on the paddle saying “Jai Guru Dev”.

I had my breakfast at a tea stall on the way and started cycling towards Shillong (via NH-6). As soon as I reached a place called Byrnihat (about 25 km from my start), the rear tyre of my bike got blown out. Luckily, I could find a cycle repair shop nearby. It was found that the tyre was damaged along with the tube. As I didn’t carry any spare tyre, I had to go to Guwahati (Gearup six miles, near khanapara) by hiring an auto rickshaw. I bought 2 tyres as I decided to keep a spare tyre always in my future journey. Luckily, the incident happened in the beginning of my journey, otherwise I would have been in big trouble as that particular type of tyre would not have been available in entire Meghalaya. God helped and warned me for my future journeys.

After fixing the new tyre/tube, I could re-start cycling at around 2 pm after lunch. Rain had stopped by that time. After the rain, weather being very pleasant and the road being excellent, I enjoyed cycling and I forgot the trouble of burst tyres. I crossed Umling and reached Nongpoh at 5 pm. There were not many hotels at Nongpoh. I could get a room (Rs.1000) at Palm hotel (8798004401) at Saiden village near Nongpoh and rested for the night.

Day-2: 6th April’24: Nongpoh to Shillong: 55 km:

The road towards Shillong (NH-6) is gradual climb but very scenic. I crossed Umsning and then Umian lake (it is also called barapani lake). It was very sunny and hot day. Because of some on going construction of a bridge near Umian lake, there was huge traffic jam. I pushed my cycle for kilometers. As I could not find any good restaurant, I ate lunch (rice + dal for Rs. 30) at a roadside dhaba. The road from Umian to Shillong is very stiff. I took the help of a Taxi for last 10 km by paying him Rs. 400 to transport me alongwith my bike upto Shillong. I checked in at Samanbha guest house (9774046220) which was pre-booked (through booking.com). In the evening, I went to visit the Catholic Church (Cathedral of Mary Help of Christians), strolled around the capital city and then went to famous police bazaar. Shillong is a vibrant city with highland climate and cosmopolitan vibes. 

Day-3: 7th April'24: Shillong to Thadlaskein: 52 km

The road from Shillong towards Jowai (NH-6) is very tough climb for first 8 km. I had to push my bike all along and it was very tiring. I was very worried if I can at all go to Jowai with my cycle. After 8 km, road became plain and so I could start cycling. It was sunny day but comfortable to ride. Road was excellent with green hamlets on both sides. After 6 hrs of continuous cycling, I reached to a place called Thadlaskein (10 km before Jowai) at west Jaintia hill district. I took a room at CTC Orchid hotel (9856003662). They provided me the room at concessional rate (Rs. 1200) considering me a solo cyclist.  In the evening, I roamed around the beautiful Thadlaskein lake to see the superb sunset and then the Sajar Nagli memorial park. I ate excellent dinner (anybody passing through that area, should not miss a meal there) at the hotel and slept well.

Day-4: 8th April’24: Thadlaskein to Amlarem (50 km)

In the morning, I went to the historic Nartiang village (by shared taxi @ Rs. 70 per person). There is a Monolithic garden where ancient stones are erected to depict the glorious events of the Jaintia kings. The standing monoliths are dedicated to the male ancestors and flat ones are dedicated to the women (see pic). The Maa Jayantee temple (one of the 51 Shakti Peethas) is also situated there. It is one of the holiest sites for devotees of Hinduism. 

After visiting the Nartiang village, I came back to hotel and had my complimentary breakfast (excellent alu paratha) and started cycling towards Dawki via NH-206. Keeping Jowai beside, I reached the Phe Phe water fall (about 25 km from Jowai and 5 km off route). Being gravel road, it was little difficult for me to reach there with my bike. Local children helped me to push my bike. Phe Phe (means paradise in local language) water fall is a two-tier beautiful water fall. Many tourists were swimming at the bottom but I didn’t go upto the bottom as it was a long trek. After visiting the place, I came back to Highway again and continued cycling. As it was evening time by then, I took a room at a home stay near Amlarem. There was one more water fall on the way, Krang Suri water fall but I didn’t visit that.

Day-5: 9th April’24: Amlarem- Shnongpdeng - Dawki (40 km):

From Amlarem, I started cycling towards Dawki. Road was very nice, down slope, greenery on both sides.  Just before Dawki, there is a beautiful spot, Shnongpdeng (5 km away from NH) on the bank of Umngot River (the cleanest river in Asia). I took a tent (frank adventure camp, 8837257876). I roamed around the river bank & the beautiful suspension bridge and then I went for a boat ride (Rs. 600 per boat) on the cleanest river up to its source. The water of the river is so clear that the boats floating on it, look as if they are on a crystal glass surface. After the boat ride, I took bath in the river. But as it was very hot, staying in the tent was impossible. So, I decided to leave the place and went to Dawki. 

I took a room at a Hotel (Apurna hotel, 8787428256) at a concessional rate (Rs.1300). In the evening, I went to see the Bangladesh border (Dawki Tamabil border) and Jaflong view point. Dawki is a sleepy border town in Jaintia range but very picturesque place. 

Day-6: 10th April’24: Dawki to Mawlynnong (32 km).

From Dawki, I started cycling through the border roads towards Mawlynnong. All BSF jawans at check posts greeted me and offered me waters. Road is almost flat and beautiful with fences on one side and lush green mountains on the other side. It was lovely experience to ride through this road. There were  very few houses here and there but mostly vacant. Then after 15 km, it was the forest roads with  gradual climb but comfortable for cycling. I reached Riwai village where exits a beautiful living root bridge. There were many tourists who were very curious about my solo cycling expedition in a hilly state. After visiting the place, I cycled to Mawlynnong, the cleanest village in Asia. I took a cottage (SETA home stay, Tyndle: 8119068332). I got it at concessional rate (Rs. 1000) being solo cyclist. I roamed around the village in the evening. There was a bamboo machan from where the entire village can be seen. It was excellent time I spent in this village. I ate dinner at a dhaba inside the village. In Meghalaya, mostly I had to eat rice thali as roti is not easily available here.

Day-7: 11th April’24: Mawlynnong to Laitlyngkot (50 km).

In the morning, I again took some pics of Mawlynnong village and started cycling towards Pynursla. The road suggested by google map for pynursla is a gravel road and very bad. Luckily, some villager suggested me to take a different route which is new and shorter. This route is recognized by google for pedestrians only. I followed that road. It was excellent road but stiff climb. I reached Pynursla by lunchtime. After crossing Pynursla, I started looking for some hotel/ home stay as I can’t reach Cherrapunji on the same day. Finally, I got a Hotel at Laitlyngkot (Moonlight Homestay). It was a very basic accommodation and food was very bad. Somehow, I managed the night stay there. Afterwards I realized that had I moved few more kilometers towards Cherrapunji road, there were good resorts/hotels available.

Day-8: 12th April’24: Laitlyngkot to Cherrapunji (42 km):

As I started cycling towards Cherrapunji, roads were down slope with lush green valleys and trees. There are many hotels/Homestay and eating joints on the road side. I ate breakfast on the way. I reached ‘Garden of Caves’ before Cherrapunji (5 km away from NH5). Garden of caves is a very beautiful tourist spot comprising natural limestone caves, waterfalls, springs, etc. They have a very organized tour maps and many volunteers were there to guide. It is an excellent place.

After visiting this place, I cycled to Cherrapunji (Sohra). I took a room at Selena Homestay (9774810544) at sohra-laitkynsew road near Saitsohpen. It is a very nice home stay. After taking bath and some rest, I went to visit Mawsmai cave. It is a long and beautiful natural cave. Weather was very pleasant. I roamed around the city in the evening using local taxi. 

Day-9: 13 April'24: Visiting Double Decker Living Root Bridge

As suggested by cyclist friend whom I met on the way, I hired a cab for visiting the famous Double Decker Living Root Bridge. I started at 9 AM and it took 40 min. to reach the car parking area. It takes around 2 hrs to reach upto the Double Decker Living Root Bridge by walking through thousands of stiff and narrow steps. I took a walking pole and walked very carefully. On the way, I visited the longest single decker living root bridge. These living root bridges are naturally formed by roots of rubber plant. The double decker living root bridge is definitely a natural wonder. I clicked few pics at this wonderful place. I took bath in the stream flowing below the bridge and spent about 1 hr there. I didn’t go to the 'blue lagoon' or the 'rainbow water fall' as it would have taken another 3 hrs. Instead, I decided to return back. I saw many orchids and other flowers on the way. I reached to the parking area at 3 pm and the driver came to pick me for the guest house. In the evening, I washed my clothes and taken rest in my room. Very nice homemade food was provided.

Day-10: 14th April’24: Cherrapunji to lumdewsaw village (upper Shillong) (50 km):

I left the home stay at 7 am and I started cycling towards Nohkalikai water fall (5 km away from Sohra). There is a big Ramakrishna Mission Ashram at Sohra. I kept my pannier bags at a tea stall in front of Ramakrishna mission as I have to come back through the same place. Nohkalikai fall is beautiful and people said it is much more gorgeous in July when there are huge rains.

After visiting the water fall, I came back to the tea stall to collect my pannier bags. After tea break, I came to the main road (NH-5) and started cycling towards Shillong. It was gradual climb and I reached upto Lumdewsaw village in upper shillong (10 km before Shillong city). I took a room at a hotel (Aurora guest house). It was very good.

Day-11: 15th April’24: Lumdewsaw to Nongpoh (57 km):

I started cycling towards Guwahati crossing the Army Cantonment area and then Shillong ISBT bypassing Shillong town. It was down slope, so I reached Umian Lake by 9 am. During my onward journey, I could not visit the lake properly because of traffic jam and hot sun. This time, I went to the lake view point and spent 1 hr there. I met a new friend here (Mr. David from Bangalore) and he offered me coffee at the lake view resort. It is an artificial lake that came into existence due to construction of Umian dam. Now it a major tourist attraction in Meghalaya.

Then again I started cycling, crossed Umsning and reached the Palm hotel (near Nongpoh) where I stayed during my onward journey. They recognized me and provided the same room at same price.

Day-12: 16 April’24: Nongpoh to Guwahati (50 km):

From Nongpoh, I started cycling early in the morning and reached to Vian inn at Paltan Bazaar area at Guwahati by 11 am. I went to fancy market to get my cycle serviced at Imperial cycle co. (9954617667).

This way, I concluded my cycling tour of Meghalaya. I cycled for 528 km in 12 days covering the Khasi and Jaintia hills. I rode across National Highways through the mighty mountains, boarder roads, scenic trails, cleanest village, walked through long natural caves and sailed on the cleanest river. Apart from visiting the historical sites, temples, waterfalls and famous living root bridges, I was deeply touched to meet the innocent Khasi people. Although most of the village people do not understand Hindi, I could communicate with them easily. 

I am deeply thankful to Mr. Rieweh kupar (local person who was introduced to me by one of my friend Mr. Shivaji choudhury) who helped me to navigate my route and to find hotels from time to time. At last but not the least, I am grateful to my Cycle (Scott Sub Cross 30) for it's untiring service throughout my journey. 

To summarize, my Meghalaya cycling tour has been amazing, spectacular, challenging and very memorable tour with each day bringing unique experiences. I feel blessed to have chosen this destination in this month of the year as weather was excellent throughout my journey. It remained cloudy but not raining much. Every day’s ride was different and made this an unforgettable cycling expedition. Meghalaya is really an unexplored paradise.

Anukul mandal (91-9818738602)

Anukul1962@gmail.com